Caring for grapes in the Urals in summer: planting and growing in open ground

Not all varieties of berries equally take root in different climatic zones and conditions - this is the rule. There are no exceptions to it. Therefore, practical advice on caring for grape bushes in the Urals or Siberia in the summer will be useful for beginner gardeners.

Grape varieties for the Urals

The popular wine berry has always ripened better in the southern latitudes, where it was originally cultivated. Recently, special frost-resistant species have been bred for growing in cold regions. The peculiarities of the local climate are in a short but hot summer, which the breeders took advantage of.The best grape varieties for the Ural region are those that ripen between 90-110 (early) and 115-130 (middle) days.

The following varieties are most often recommended as tested in extreme conditions:

• in memory of Dombrowskaya;
• in memory of Shatilov;
• muscat Pink early;
• Samokhvalovich;
• Beauty of the North (Olga);
• Aleshenkin;
• Lydia;
• Negro.

This list of species adapted for growing in the Southern and Middle Urals is constantly updated, work is underway to further improve the qualities of grapes, such as yield and frost resistance.

Experienced agronomists strongly recommend planting Alyosha, Pamyat Shatilov, Pamyatya Dombrovskaya species first, as less susceptible to cold, unpretentious, not requiring special conditions for breeding, and then move on to others.

Fit features

For the correct planting of grapes in the Urals, you need to know the rules for growing shrubs, the nuances of choosing a place and time. There are a number of basic methods practiced by gardeners.

The result of the event depends on the practice of mastering the skills, understanding when to plant a certain variety and why.

2 methods are used: breeding by seedlings and from cuttings. The best time for the first option is mid-summer, June-July. Consider the fit details.

Important:

• soil temperature (not less than +15 ˚С);
• specific area of the site;
• ground condition.

Grapes love the sun, shade is fatal to them, as well as tall plants growing nearby. Therefore, the lighter, the more suitable the conditions for the growth of seedlings.Heavy, impervious to air and water, soils are not suitable: loose, systematically dug up and fertilized soil is needed.

Pits for planting are prepared at the rate of 1 square meter for each bush. An option is provided with the placement of grape chibouks in a row: for this, a ditch of uniform width is dug along the entire length (meter), with the same depth. The length of the trench depends on the number of seedlings, between them there must be at least 100 centimeters. The recommended orientation is north to south.

The bottom is covered with a layer of draining material (expanded clay, gravel), combination is allowed. A soil mixture prepared independently from ordinary earth, sand and humus, taken in equal proportions, is laid on top. Sometimes mineral fertilizers (with phosphorus and potassium) are added there, ashes left after burning leaves and branches.

The soil in the pit is watered abundantly to compact it.Preparation begins 50-60 days before planting chibouks, in early spring (March-April). The ground level does not reach the top of the pit by 15-20 centimeters. In the middle of the resulting pie, a small hole is made, grapes are planted in it, tamping the soil around it and watering as the liquid evaporates from the soil.

The next year, the sagging ditch is filled up, at the same time hilling the established seedlings by about 25-30 centimeters, creating a soil roller. Care should be taken with watering: grapes love water, but do not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Care and cultivation

Growing vines in the Urals has its own subtleties: hotbeds and greenhouses are not used, practicing planting in open ground covered with mulch and snow. Top pruning is done after the appearance of a pair of vines (approximately the second year of development). Weak shoots are mercilessly removed, leaving the strongest.

How to take care of the vineyard in the summer, in August: water, stepson, pinch the top vines, mulch. In autumn, they cut off the shoots, always leaving one of the male ones: it is needed for pollination. It is permissible to sow grass near the vineyard, which in the future will go to mulch. Concerns in the summer (in July) include abundant fertilization of the soil with mineral complexes, the destruction of pests, treatment with drugs against diseases.

The subtlety of growing in a cold region lies in managing the growth of buds: in the Urals, grapes produce more buds than they can feed on the energy of the sun and the root system. Therefore, the "extra" ovaries are removed, leaving 3-4 pieces on one vine. When choosing from 2 neighboring brushes, the weak (smaller) one is destroyed - this is how beginners are advised to grow grapes.

September is the time to “clear” the leaves from the stems in order to open the access of sunlight to the ripe berries. It is important not to overdo it here: shaded bunches will not be able to ripen, too open bunches will burn out in the sun.To create the ability for the vine to twist, strengthen, they arrange supports, pull the wire, dig a pole or a pipe with crossbars near the bush.

Compliance with the basic rules of care will allow you to grow large, sweet berries, to harvest a generous harvest. Neglecting them will lead to the gradual extinction of the vine, the degeneration of the vineyard, death from disease, waterlogging, sunburn or cold.

Trimming Tips

Autumn is considered not only chickens: at this time, grapes are pruned in the garden, berries are picked and prepared for wintering. By carrying out these works, you can radically change the growth of the bush, weaken it or strengthen it (depending on the experience of the gardener and his understanding of the essence of the issue).

Events to form the contour of the vine affect:

1. For productivity.
2. Increasing the size of bunches and berries.
3. Development of the root system.
4. Comfortable transition of the plant to hibernation.

The importance of pruning is undeniable, it should be understood by everyone, including beginner growers. It is allowed to conduct it throughout the entire season of growth and maturation (removing weak stepchildren). The main volume falls on autumn, when the harvest is already harvested and the vine is freed from heavy bunches.

In the summer, the areas dried up during the winter are sequentially removed, the buds are thinned out (defective ones are removed), then the same is done with the sprouts. Of the stepchildren, no more than one male is left. Shoots are subject to division into strong and weak, interfering with the active development of the plant.

Pinch the grapes in the period from mid-July to the end of August, in the autumn they begin to lighten the ripening clusters (removing the sun-covering leaves, lower and damaged). At the same time produce the formation of fruit sleeves.For the Urals, gardeners empirically installed a fan pattern for 4 vines. To do this, the strongest shoots are left on the stem (stem) by successive pruning. The first stage includes the removal of "extra" vines, mustaches, leaves. Shoots and the only stepson are shortened to 4-6 buds.

Next, the vines are fixed horizontally, bent to the ground, then sprinkled with a layer of mulch and prepared for wintering. The second stage, next year, involves the development of renewed vines from the abandoned buds, which will also be thinned out in the future. You need to leave the strongest, 2 on each sleeve, remove the rest.

With proper pruning in the fall, it will be possible to harvest the first crop from developed vines. Experienced growers know that the most productive part of the sleeve is its middle: this is what they are guided by, forming a contour of 8-10 strong buds in autumn.

In spring, a shoot is found at the base of the vine, from which it will be possible to make a replacement (when the entire branch bears fruit and begins to need rejuvenation).After 3-4 years old vines are cut off, leaving pre-selected young knots. Such a scheme allows you to regularly harvest from a grape bush up to 30 years old, systematically removing weakened and “aged” vines, replacing them with updated ones.

Shelter of grapes for the winter

Before the start of the cold Ural winter, the grape bush is prepared for hibernation: it is freed from leaves, branches, bent to the ground and sprinkled with a layer of mulch (hereinafter referred to as snow). The subtlety of preparing for winter is that premature, hasty sheltering will allow molds to develop, and this will lead to the death of the kidneys.

Work on the conservation of the bush begins when the average daily temperature drops to -5 ˚С, and the soil freezes in the upper part (approximately November). You should not pay attention to the excessive "effeminacy" of the kidneys: in specially bred varieties, they calmly tolerate frosts of 20 ° C and more.It is forbidden to lay vines on bare ground: it is wiser to use a wooden grate, an old picket fence, a layer of pine or spruce needles.

Such a precaution is needed so that after the spring snowmelt, the vine is not saturated with moisture, does not start to rot. The top cover is the same needles, spruce branches, tarpaulin.

For small bushes, they use "know-how": they roll the vine into a spiral, lay it on a pre-made bedding, and then cover it with a bucket, an old basin or a wooden box. Next, the resulting “house” is covered with any material at hand - leaves, straw, needles.

As soon as the snow falls, a layer of 40 centimeters or more is created above the storage place for the vines. If there is little rainfall, you will have to use slate, roofing material, boards, the same tarpaulin, creating a layer of protection for the vineyard. It is important not to leave the vines on the trellis (so they will freeze over, they will be irretrievably damaged) and thoroughly fix the shoots, preventing them from being damaged by gusts of wind.

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