Carrot harvesting: when to dig from the garden and collect for storage

If the harvesting of carrots was carried out in a timely manner and reliable storage methods were used, then the root crop can be stored, practically without losing its qualities, throughout the year. Most gardeners prefer to grow a vegetable in their backyard to be sure of the environmental friendliness of the product.

Determining the optimal time for harvesting carrots

Although carrots are not afraid of lowering the temperature index, leaving the root crop in the ground until frost is not worth it. The following factors may influence the timing of carrot harvesting:

• state of culture;
• temperature regime;
• variety features;
• purpose of cultivation.

Each variety has its own ripening period, and then the carrots, which continue to be in the ground, lose their juiciness and sweetness.

It is necessary to take into account the period when biological ripeness occurs. By this time, carrots should have a certain size and color, in accordance with varietal characteristics. Under bad weather conditions, such ripeness may not occur at all, which is often noted in late-ripening carrot varieties. It is necessary to harvest carrots when the vegetable reaches technical ripeness. This decision causes a reduction in shelf life and reduces the yield.

The temperature at which carrots must be removed is usually between 3 and 5 degrees.At this point, the root crops stop growing, so it makes no sense to keep the carrots in the ground longer. The first autumn frosts should serve as a signal when to dig carrots. Experienced gardeners claim that when digging up carrots in warm weather, the vegetable may not withstand the temperature difference when moving to the basement.

Regulations for picking late carrots

These varieties are characterized by the end of ripening with a gradual decrease in the average daily temperature. They can be kept in the ground until cold weather.

After the decrease in the average daily temperature in September, the growth of tops slows down, but at the same time trace elements accumulate in the roots, and the carrots ripen.

Vegetable accumulates the maximum amount of useful substances, which helps to increase the shelf life.

This requirement applies, first of all, to late varieties whose vegetation lasts more than 110 days. Harvesting carrots can only begin in the second half of autumn. However, when the temperature drops to -3 degrees, there is a possibility of infection of the crop with gray rot.

Harvesting mid-ripening fruits

In mid-ripening root crops, ripeness occurs between 80 and 100 days. These varieties are juicy enough to be used in fresh vegetable salads. Such carrots are harvested starting from September 15th. A longer stay in the ground leads to a loss of juiciness and compaction of the pulp.

Time to harvest early carrots

The growing season of early carrots is quite short - no more than 80 days. These varieties ripen in mid-summer. Usually selective collection is carried out as the root crop reaches 1 cm in diameter. Carrots are used in baby food, salads, and are suitable for eating raw.

The main disadvantage of early varieties is that root crops are not subject to long-term storage. If carrots are kept in the ground for a longer period, the roots will crack and lose their taste.

Digging up root crops from the ground as needed, it is necessary to fill in the holes formed so that they do not cause the penetration of carrot flies to nearby root crops.

If all the carrots are removed from the garden at the same time, then cabbage representatives (head lettuce, bush beans, broccoli, kohlrabi or cauliflower) can be planted in its place.

Signs to start cleaning

Knowing the growing season of a particular variety of carrots is not enough to determine exactly when to harvest carrots from the garden. It is important to inspect the culture visually. The most characteristic sign that indicates the ripening of the fruit is the yellowing of the tops, in particular the lower foliage. If the middle leaves begin to change color, this may mean that the plant is sick or the collection period has already been missed.

Another clear sign of a ripe carrot is the formation of lateral roots. This feature indicates the formation of seeds. If there are any indications, collection should not be delayed.

Collection rules

Properly organized harvesting will help keep vegetables in proper conditions for a long time without losing quality. Stop watering the beds 7 to 15 days before harvesting.

It is better to dig up root crops on a fine sunny day so that the fruits do not get wet in the rain, and then they are better stored. It is advisable to pay attention to the lunar calendar - harvesting is best done on days with a waning moon. According to gardeners, this contributes to a better keeping quality of the crop.

Digging up and pulling out fruits

Small fruits can be removed from the ground by pulling the tops without using garden tools. But it is better to pre-dig up elongated root crops with a pitchfork or a shovel. It is advisable to moisten the soil before harvesting, which will simplify the process of pulling root crops out of the ground. After pulling out, it is not recommended to chip the stuck soil by hitting the carrots against each other - this can cause damage.

Dig up the root crop by carefully applying pressure on the shoulder of the shovel, as even minor damage to the root crop can lead to infection by pathogens and further decay. Undermining should be carried out away from the root crop - so that the carrots rise along with the top layer of the earth.

Trimming

If you leave the leaves of the harvested root crops, the tops gradually draw the juices out of the carrots. Greens should be removed after the earth remaining on the root crops has dried.

Leaves are best cut with a knife. The cut is made along the top, going deep into the root crop by about 2 mm, but it is not recommended to cut off the leaves with your hands. This will help prevent the crop from sprouting prematurely in the spring. If the roots are intended to receive seeds, leave 1.5 - 2 cm of tops.

Drying

Peeled root crops are laid out under a canopy in the shade for drying. The next day, you can select diseased and damaged vegetables.

Whole and he althy ones are taken away for further laying in the cellar for storage, and it is advisable to use damaged root crops soon and not put together with the rest of the crop. Frozen specimens should be discarded, as they lose their ability to resist diseases.

Don't leave carrots outside to dry for a long time. This will cause wilting of root crops, reduce juiciness and taste characteristics, harm keeping quality.

Bookmark in the cellar

Shelves in the cellar where the crop will be stored are pre-treated with a solution of copper sulfate. Carrots can be placed in boxes with calcined sand. Periodically, the sand is moistened for better preservation of the fruit. Sometimes sawdust of coniferous trees is used instead of sand.

In some villages, chalking is used, that is, root crops are dipped in a solution of chalk, and then dried. Or they simply powder the root crops with dry chalk powder. This helps reduce the chance of pathogens entering the fruit.

There is a known method of immersing carrots intended for winter storage in a solution of onion husks or immersing root crops in a liquid clay mass with further drying.

Storage organization

To ensure optimal temperature conditions during the storage of carrots in the winter, it is necessary to maintain the temperature in the basement in the range from 0 to +3 degrees. Equally important is the absence of light and keeping the air humidity within 90%, especially at the initial stage of storage.

Before laying in the cellar, it is possible to withstand the crop at a temperature of about +12 degrees, and then select damaged specimens for current needs. Only he althy fruits are stored.

You can store the harvested crop in plastic bags only after thoroughly drying the carrots. Root crops are tightly laid inside polyethylene, and then the bag is tied up. Small cuts can be made for ventilation.

When stored in a box with sand, it is pre-moistened at the rate of 1 liter of water per bucket of sand. A two-centimeter layer of sand is poured at the bottom of the box, and root crops are placed in it at some distance from each other, sand is again poured on top.

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