What kind of soil is needed for grapes: acidic or alkaline, the right ph

What kind of soil should be prepared for grapes - this is often asked by novice growers, amateurs and practicing gardeners. It depends on the soil mixture whether the seedling takes root or not, how quickly it adapts and grows. To dispel all doubts, as well as to make the right choice, thematic material with the advice of professionals will help.

Criteria for soil suitability for planting grapes

Even experienced gardeners can make a mistake when it comes to the factors that influence the development of a wine berry. Probably will be called:

variety and its individual characteristics (maturing period, disease resistance);
climatic growing conditions;
feeding - their availability and frequency;
natural causes - air, light, watering.

But not everyone will remember the elementary - the composition of the soil, its acidity, saturation with minerals, fractional characteristics. And this also seriously affects the growth of the vine, its ability to bear fruit.

The subtlety lies in the fact that grapes do not need black soil in its pure form. A composite mixture of sand, humus, earth is much better suited, sufficiently air and water permeable. Heavy, clayey soils are unacceptable. A place with a close occurrence of aquifers is also not suitable: this will lead to rotting of the roots. Therefore, growers go to tricks, partially or completely replacing the land in the selected area with a carefully composed "cocktail" that will satisfy the needs of a fastidious vine.

Quality composition

This is the saturation of the soil mixture with useful substances that the vine will need to form the root system, grow clusters and berries. Grapes need the following minerals (ideally they should be in the soil or have to be "added" like fertilizer):

Nitrogen. Foundation for growth. No nitrogen - shoots develop poorly. Oversaturation leads to a shift in balance, weight gain of green mass to the detriment of the taste of the berry.
Phosphorus. The second most important element affecting the vineyard, the speed of fruit ripening, the reduction of the growing season.
Potassium. It affects the synthesis of carbohydrates - starch and sugars, therefore, with a lack of this component in the soil, the berries will be sour and tasteless. The presence of potassium is also associated with the frost resistance of the bush.
Magnesium. Its role in the main process - the formation of chlorophyll - is undeniable. Without magnesium, the foliage loses its natural green color, becomes withered and dead.
Calcium. When there is enough, the roots grow in time, supporting the stem, and the berries are tasty and fragrant. An excess of calcium leads to bush disease (chlorosis).
Iron. Also involved in the synthesis of chlorophyll in the leaves.

These are the main elements, but besides them, there are auxiliary ones - sodium, aluminum, zinc. Therefore, to feed the grapes, experienced gardeners use complex, complex fertilizers.

Acidity

The normal development of a seedling and an adult plant depends on the reaction of the soil, its acidity. Too acidic soil will have to be alkalized, not enough - to acidify. In general, in such cases, they talk about the balance of acidity, the pH indicator, which is determined by conducting a special analysis.

Correct pH

Each plant has its own requirements for acidity.Grapes are no exception. Potatoes and raspberries love an acidic environment; for a wine berry, a corridor of 4-8 units has been experimentally established. The maximum value should not exceed 8.2, and then if the soil is not oversaturated with s alts.

Indicator plants

Determine the acidity of the environment will help certain plants that choose certain conditions. At the same time, it will become clear why some of them grow and prosper, while others wither away. Sorrel, carrots, cucumbers, irises and lilies like acidic soils. Moss, sedge or horsetail settle there. If the pH is low, this is evidenced by the rapid growth of gooseberries, blackberries, arborvitae.

Alkaline content

For the normal growth of grapes, the “correct” pH balance is needed, and not just an indicator with a bias in an acidic or alkaline environment. The neutral level (5.6-6.0) is determined by lettuce, apple, pear. It must be remembered that many plants are able to adapt to the acidity of the environment, and some in the process of growth can correct it.Clover and nettle grow on low-acid lands; on slightly alkaline - quinoa or mustard.

Humidity and tensiometer measurement

More than the presence of nutrients in the soil, only soil moisture affects the growth of grapes. Rare varieties respond normally to excessive moisture.

The wineberry prefers well-drained, dry mixes. The moisture index is determined by a special device - a tensiometer. To learn how to use it, enthusiasm alone will not be enough. It is better to know approximately the level of groundwater and regulate soil moisture by irrigation.

Characteristics of the soil depending on the method of seating

Before planting grapes in one way or another, determine the place, composition of the soil, its moisture content and fertilizer. For cuttings and seedlings, it will be different.

For cuttings

For planting cuttings in cups or pots, mixtures are prepared according to the following "recipes":

About 1 part of humus, the same amount of turf and sawdust, half a part of sand.
Equal proportions of peat and stale (not fresh) manure.

Under seedlings

The soil for seedlings is prepared according to different methods, but they start doing it in the fall: they dig up, loosen, fertilize, remove old plants (if there were sick ones, it is better not to plant grapes in such a place to avoid infection).

For better drainage, crushed stone is added to the soil under an already planted bush, for seedlings, large fraction material is placed at the bottom of the dug hole - stones, bricks, sometimes pieces of tubes with holes are dug in to supply water and fertilizers through them to the roots. Depending on the composition of the soil, it can be “diluted” with sand, mixed with peat or humus.

For layering

Layering on grapes is carried out from an already adult plant, no special preparation is required, since the same soil is used. Depending on the chosen technique, a trench is dug, a vine or a fresh shoot is placed in it, sprinkled with earth. It is allowed to add peat, compost, and mulch the planting.

Under the shank

It is best to start preparing in the fall: this way the earth will settle, saturated with fertilizers. Digging is obligatory, but without fanaticism, so as not to grind the soil to a state of sand. You can add mineral fertilizers or organic matter (ordinary manure).

Each experienced grower has his own technique, for example, this: when digging a hole, the earth from it is divided into an upper and lower layer. Next, the "top" is mixed with humus and again placed in the hole, then filling up the remaining "lower" soil.

It is recommended to use any large fragments - bricks, stones, crushed stone. They will increase the permeability to air and water, which is so important for grapes.

When grown from seed

Growing from seed is one of the hardest ways. It will require a well-fertilized, pH-balanced soil (you can take a ready-made earthen mixture for flowers). Peat, dosed mineral fertilizers are welcome. The main task is to maintain the required level of humidity and temperature.

For adult bushes

The transplant itself is a serious shock for the bush, it is not advised to perform it unless absolutely necessary, with old plants. It is better to consider other options, but if transplanting is inevitable, then the soil is prepared a month before the procedure, in the fall.

There is nothing new in this: digging, fertilizing, watering. An autumn transplant is preferable, since the bush will grow in winter, under the snow, and by spring it will definitely get stronger, take root in a new place.

For growing different varieties

As such, there is no selectivity for different types of soil type - grapes need drained, moderately acidic, dry soil with potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. There are doubts about the choice of soil for a particular variety - it is better to check with the seller of the seedling or familiarize yourself with the material yourself by studying thematic materials.

Preparing the land

Careful selection of the landing site, the soil mixture is 80% of success. Even the strongest seedling will not grow on poor, clayey, too wet land. Therefore, experienced gardeners, even in difficult conditions, use soil replacement (full or partial) to compensate for the shortcomings of natural conditions.

For open ground

The simplest ways to fertilize the soil are no less effective than complex ones. It is enough to add organic matter to the soil - compost, humus, use mulching, feed with ash to lay the foundation for vine growth.

The manure of cattle or birds must be fermented, aged, so that it does not burn the delicate roots of grapes. In the case of compost, grass, leaves, small branches, fruit residues and kitchen waste are successively placed in the pit, and after a few years a ready-made home-made complex fertilizer is obtained.

Substrate for greenhouses and greenhouses

In cold climates, to accelerate the growth of seedlings, they are grown in a greenhouse. To do this, use a ready-made, purchased in agro-shops or mixed on your own, substrate. In the first case, you do not need to worry about the pH level, the presence of minerals - they are already there. Otherwise, there will be painstaking work to add peat, humus, thorough mixing and distribution of soil throughout the greenhouse.

For landing on balconies

The ideal option seems to be planting ornamental grapes in a soil mix that is sold in stores for growing indoor plants: it has a balanced composition, at the same time you can choose the desired acidity indicator.

Improve soil quality in different seasons

Not everyone is equally lucky - someone has to painstakingly enrich the land on their site in order to create the required conditions for the vine. But this is also possible.

Spring

There is a season for every application of top dressing. In the spring, the first digging is carried out after the cold season, mineral complexes containing nitrogen and its derivatives are added.

Summer

Sometimes they loosen the soil, remove weeds, apply nitrogenous fertilizers, use foliar top dressing.

Autumn

At this time, they dig up the soil, remove the damaged parts of the plant, add potassium mineral complexes. At the same time, manure, compost and mulch are introduced - this way they are better absorbed by the plant.

What to look for when choosing soil

When deciding on a site for planting vines, they notice which indicator plants grow there, how deep the groundwater is. The vine will reach the lower moisture-bearing horizons by itself, putting out long roots, in the case of a superficial location, the situation is worse. Fluid diverting, draining, or alternative site selection may be required.

Fertilize the land

Grapes are in dire need of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus - the growth of the vine and the taste of the berry depend on this. You can fertilize the land using simple improvised methods.

Dung

Cow humus is a wonderful organic fertilizer. It is only important not to overdo it, add humus in doses and it is better in autumn than in spring. Connoisseurs advise using horse manure, but applying it every 2-3 years.

Bird droppings

Bird guano can compete with other organic substances in terms of its balanced composition, but there is one subtlety: due to its high energy value, the litter must “burn out”, stand, so as not to burn the roots of the grapes. You can reduce the concentration by diluting it with water.

Compost

Organic fertilizer of natural origin. Prepared from leaves, food waste, grass. A significant drawback is that such a complex takes a long time to prepare. It is applied in doses, once a year, usually before winter.

Eggshell

The shell contains an important mineral for grapes - calcium, which affects the ripening and taste of the berry. It is crushed, brought into the ground in small portions, trying not to exceed the norm.

Yeast

Regular yeast helps balance microflora. The method of preparing top dressing is simple and straightforward: yeast (100 grams) is diluted in a bucket of warm water (10 liters), put on overnight. One bush takes up to 2 liters of nutrient solution.

Mulch

Mulching helps retain moisture and nutrients in the soil. To do this, after planting and watering the seedling, the root zone is covered with small branches, straw, foliage, with a layer of up to 5-7 centimeters. This protection is said to inhibit the growth of weeds.

Sawdust

Ordinary sawdust can play a dual role - mulch the soil and eventually turn into fertilizer, rot to saturate the soil with useful substances.

Care

Measures for the care of the planted vine are timely watering, treatment with chemicals from diseases and pests, top dressing and shelter for the winter.

Disinfection

Held in the spring or several times during the summer season, for prevention. They use drugs to kill insects, pathogens, spraying grapes with a garden sprayer.

Protection

Some varieties are actively eaten by wasps, birds - effective protection of the future crop is needed. To do this, use traps, insecticides, special nets or caps. In the case of protection against common garden diseases, spraying with Bordeaux liquid, complex action preparations is used.

Recovery

To push the bush after a long winter period, to make it grow more actively, pruning dead areas and forming sleeves are widely used. For some varieties, due to the abundance of fast-growing stepchildren, this is an extreme but necessary measure.

Biologicals

Serve as an alternative where chemistry is not effective or cannot be applied. They are based on special strains of biocultures that suppress the activity of gray rot, mildew, and fungi. Absolutely harmless to humans: processed fruits can be eaten without fear of poisoning (unlike pesticides).