Siberian Giant Garlic: variety description, cultivation and care with photo

Table Of Contents

Features of the variety
Growing and care
The most common diseases and pests

The dream of every summer resident is to harvest a rich harvest from a small plot with a minimum of planting care. That is why most gardeners prefer winter varieties of garlic, which compare favorably with early maturity and high yields. The varietal variety of garlic is great, but Siberian Giant garlic is especially popular with Siberians.

Features of the variety

According to the type of cultivation, garlic varieties are divided into two varieties: spring and winter. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - before winter.

Siberian giant - winter variety, shooter, mid-season. It takes 90 to 115 days from germination in spring to full maturity.

Plant characteristics:

garlic has 5 to 7 green leaves with a slight wax coating;
grows up to 70 cm in height;
flat-round heads;
dry husk turns white with purple streaks;
bulbs are large with a powerful arrow, the weight of each garlic can reach 100 grams;
head with 6 to 9 cloves in mauve shell;
according to the content of essential oils, the Siberian giant belongs to table varieties, it has a sharp-sweet taste and rich aroma;
is frost resistant and keeps well.

Due to its excellent taste and appetizing aroma, Siberian giant garlic is excellent for universal use in cooking.

Growing and care

When choosing a variety, you should take into account the description of the plant, planting time and the characteristics of the climatic conditions of the region. As a rule, the names speak for themselves. For example, the Siberian giant is intended for cultivation in Siberia, or rather, in the Omsk, Tomsk and Novosibirsk regions.

Winter varieties of garlic are planted in autumn, from the end of September until the first frost. With the arrival of spring, the growing season and active growth of the plant begin, and already in mid-July, you can harvest.

Preparation

To get a rich harvest, before planting, it is necessary to select the seed material and prepare the beds:

On the day of planting, the heads should be divided into teeth, carefully looking at each one to make sure the quality of the planting material.
For preventive purposes, the teeth on the day of planting should be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate.
It is advisable to choose a place for a garden bed on the sunny side.

Ideal precursors for garlic would be cereals, as well as zucchini, squash and cucumbers.

Garlic after garlic can be planted no earlier than 4 years later.

Since the root system of garlic is fibrous and does not go deep into the ground, but is located in the top layer of soil, it needs soil rich in nutrients to fully grow.

Fertilizers that need to be applied in late August or early September will help increase soil fertility. If the soil is acidic, add ash to it. After fertilizing, the future bed should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate (40 grams per 10 liters) or shed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Planting garlic

Winter garlic can be planted as soon as the cold weather sets in, but there are no frosts on the soil yet. Pattern:

Two-line seating pattern preferred. The gap between the seeds should be 10-12 cm, between the "lines" - 10-15 cm, and between the rows - 35-40 cm. The depth of the grooves should be 6-8 cm. , and if insufficient, the seeds may freeze.
The teeth should be placed in the wells in a vertical position, bottom down. It is strongly not recommended to press them into the ground, otherwise they may be damaged.

After planting, the grooves should be sprinkled with earth and the bed should be leveled with a rake, but not tamped. You can also use compost instead of earth for these purposes.

Care instructions

The seeds have been sown, the bed is ready, now you need to protect the seedlings from frost in winter. To do this, the soil is mulched from above with grass without seeds and inflorescences or dry leaves, you can cover the bed with non-woven material. Care:

After the snow melts, when the first shoots appear, you should carry out the first feeding with urea (1 tablespoon per 1 sq. M) and carefully loosen the soil between the rows.
In the summer, garlic care consists in periodic loosening and weeding.
The plant does not need frequent watering, during growth it is enough to water only 2-3 times, but always with warm water.
Re-feeding should be done when the plant forms 2-4 leaves, and only with mineral mixtures. Manure negatively affects the quality of the future crop: garlic tops grow abundantly, the bulbs become loose, the risk of infection with fungal diseases increases, and the shelf life decreases.

Experienced gardeners advise not to cut off all the arrows, but leave a couple of them on the largest plants. In the future, they will help determine the harvest time. When the shells on the arrows burst, you should dig out a couple of heads and make sure the garlic is ripe.

The most common diseases and pests

Garlic, like other vegetable crops, is damaged by pests and exposed to various diseases. To grow he althy bulbs, you need to detect the problem in time and get rid of it.

Rust

Fungal disease, one of the most dangerous for garlic. The disease appears on the leaves. In the form of small, slightly convex spots of a rusty color. With further development, the spots cover the entire plant and turn black, and the leaves wither and dry out.

To prevent the appearance of rust, seed material is prevented before planting. To do this, the teeth are placed in an oven heated to + 35-40 degrees, and left there for 10-12 hours.

If the spots still appear, the leaves with signs of the disease must be removed immediately, and the plants should be sprayed with specialized products. 1% Bordeaux liquid helps well, as well as solutions of copper sulfate and tar soap.

Stem nematode

One of the most insidious pests that can destroy the entire crop. The nematode is a microscopic white worm, the size of which does not exceed 1.5 mm. They lay their eggs in the bottoms of garlic. Nematodes overwinter in bulbs or in the soil, preferring heavy, clayey ones. In dry heads of garlic, the pest can persist for more than 4 years. Stem nematodes feed on plant sap, penetrating into them through the bottom of the bulbs.

When affected, the garlic begins to lag behind in development, the stem becomes thicker, and the leaves turn yellow. Plants infected later are not much different from he althy ones, but upon careful examination, white spots can be found on the heads. If an infected bulb gets into storage, the nematodes will spread and can cause dry rot.

On clay soils, the addition of peat and sand when digging the site will help prevent the appearance of stem nematodes. As a prophylactic, before planting garlic, you should shed the garden bed with saline (1 tablespoon of s alt per 3 liters of water).

The Siberian giant is unpretentious in care, even inexperienced gardeners can grow it. At the same time, it shows excellent results, even despite the difficult weather conditions of Siberia, and the size of the heads proves the right choice of name. The Siberian giant is truly a giant garlic.