Replanting grapes in the summer to a new place: how to do it right and when is it better

Replanting old grapes every summer to a new place is not a necessary measure. More often in this way they try to correct the mistakes made during the initial landing. And here inexperienced gardeners must do everything right so as not to aggravate the situation.

Why replant grapes?

The root of the problem is often hidden in an unsuccessful choice of a site for a future vine, but in general the reasons for transplanting can be described as follows:

• little light, draft, poor soil;
• bushes planted too thick;
• the presence of neighbors that depress the vine;
• planned transfer of seedlings to another part of the site.

Before the relocation of grapes, you need to weigh the pros and cons again. The following are taken into account as counterarguments: injured (lost part of the root system) bushes often die, the taste of berries will change, fruiting is not guaranteed for the first 2-3 years after transplantation, seedlings become susceptible to diseases.

When is the best time to transplant grapes to a new location?

For a successful procedure, there are certain rules, the implementation of which will minimize the harm from the transplant.

This is the deadline for the implementation of the event, possession of information when it is better to replant the bushes, as well as taking care of the safety of the seedling, its roots.

It is not recommended to plant a new chubuk where grapes have already grown (and been uprooted): the soil there is poor, the presence of pathogens is possible.The optimal transplant time is in early spring or late autumn, when the plant is relatively dormant and does not develop. According to another rule, a bush no older than 5 years is more likely to take root. Damage to the root system is highly undesirable: therefore, they dig up and transfer grapes with an earthy lump.

The top (vine) will have to be trimmed to keep balance with the bottom. Before transplantation, they prepare the future place of residence: they dig, fertilize, and clean from weeds and pests.

Features of the root system of grapes

The development of the lower, underground, part of the seedling and adult plant depends on the characteristics of the variety, its age, nutrition, location of aquifers. There are 2 stages of root growth: until about mid-summer (July) and from autumn (September), before falling asleep. When the earth warms up to 17-21 ° C (the third decade of June), the rate of formation of the root system reaches its climax.Roots begin to grow before the buds hatch (or at the beginning of the process).

Further, the growing season, the formation of foliage is accompanied by the simultaneous strengthening of the underground part, branching of the roots. If the plant has enough moisture, microelements in the soil, then in September the 2nd stage of growth begins, which ends when the temperature of the root layers drops to 8 °C.

Drought significantly affects the development of grapes: in this case, the growth of roots is limited to one stage. Moisture is considered the main factor restraining and determining the development of the lower part of the plant. This is the difference between grapes grown in the Moscow region and Rostov: in the first case, the seedling will grow, gradually slowing down, until the end of September, due to higher soil moisture. How exactly the root system will be located, its appearance, depends on the variety and growing conditions.

Generally, there are 2 types:

1. Intense.
2. Extensive.

In the first case, the roots are short, but branched, stretched along aquifers. In the second - long and less developed to the sides, sometimes reaching 3.5 meters (Cabernet and Sauvignon varieties in the Crimea). In profile, the system has 1, 2 and 3 maximums: each of them is tied to specific growing conditions.

We take into account the age of the bush

The age of up to 5 years is considered the most favorable for the growth of the root system. In the first year of life, the soil, as well as the quality of bush care, affect the characteristics of its root system. Chubuk develops 3 types of roots: with a depth of up to 15 centimeters (dew), medium (sometimes in several tiers) and calcaneal (the deepest).

In turn, in the root process, zones of active development, absorption and conduction are distinguished.Each of them has its own specific functions that are responsible for the overall growth of the seedling. Next, consider the features of transplantation associated with the age of the shrub. Young grapes, which are no more than 5-6 years old, tolerate moving to a new place of residence well, have a relatively undeveloped root system (the risk of damaging it is minimal). It should be borne in mind that in practice the "safe" time period is reduced to 3-4 years, but first things first.

In an adult or old (10 years and above), the underground part extends inward and to the sides, it is more difficult to dig out completely. In the first year, it is better not to touch the plant - let it grow and gain strength. Two-year-olds have more vitality, but at the same time more branched root shoots. A circle with a radius of 30 centimeters is marked around the stem - this will be the digging zone. The depth is up to 60 centimeters, and the upper part is cut off to leave 2-3 eyes.

The chances of a two-year-old seedling taking root in a new place are quite high.

Grapes aged 3 years in the underground part reaches almost 1 meter, about the same size of its distribution to the sides. Such bushes are dug 50 centimeters around and 70-80 deep. When a plant is planted, pruning is carried out, leaving no more than 4 eyes.

With each subsequent year of life, the task becomes more complicated: for example, transplanting 4-5-year-old chibouks without damaging the roots is impossible - they diverge deep and wide, concentrating in a 60-cm zone. Therefore, you need to capture as much earthen clod as possible, digging 0.5 meters to the sides. The eyes are thinned out to 5-6. After 6 years, a critical period of development begins: for the shrub itself, there is nothing wrong with this, but the transplant is meaningless.

The same applies to 20-year-olds and older. To renew the plant, gentle but very long methods of gradual "transfer" of the plant are used, using its natural rooting ability.

According to the method of layering, a long side vine, the shoot is dug into the ground. Gradually (sometimes up to a year), the stepson takes root, but the connection with the mother plant remains. After a couple of years, the cuttings are separated from the bush, and the old plant is thrown away.

The katavlak method is to find the heel root: it will become the basis for a rejuvenated bush. Old grapes are pruned to the maximum, leaving a few vines. Then they are added dropwise, and after 1-2 years fruiting begins. Such methods allow you to move the shank over short distances without using a transplant, and at the same time increase its ability to survive, renew it.

Which seedlings can be transplanted?

There are no explicit restrictions on the choice of grapes for transplantation by variety, size, except for age. Starting from 2 years of age and ending at 5 years, all seedlings, provided that the earthy clod with roots is preserved, take root normally.

There is a practical way to preserve the root system of "old" (not too heavily planted in the ground) grapes:

1. The bush is dug evenly and gently until they reach the heel.
2. The resulting pit is abundantly filled with water until the consistency of thick sour cream is formed.
3. After 3-4 hours, when the root system is “wet”, it is relatively easy to remove it from the mud mixture with minimal damage.

The method requires extremely careful handling of the roots - you have to separate them from the wet ground with your hands, but as a result you get a seedling ready for transplanting. The chances of survival of a bush treated in this way are much higher than those dug out with a lump of soil.

How to choose a new location?

Vine loves warmth and light, picky in choosing neighbors - these subtleties require attention when it comes to choosing a place for transplanting.Drafts are unacceptable, stagnant moisture is also not welcome. The south sides are preferred over the others; trees that will cast a shadow on bushes in the future are excluded. Aquifers should not lie too close to the surface, saline, swampy soils are not suitable.

It is also undesirable to have the remains of stems, vines, leaves in the compost for fertilizing seedlings: carriers of diseases could remain on them. It is better to burn this waste, and use the resulting ash for top dressing.

The preparation of the hole for planting deserves a separate discussion, this is done in 30 days (or even earlier). When preparing a hole under a bush, consider the following:

• size matters - the older the grapes, the bigger (and deeper) we dig;
• for sand mixtures are limited to a parameter of 60 centimeters, loamy soils - 80;
• in northern and cold regions "add" depth to protect tender roots from freezing;
• the minimum planting step is chosen from 2 to 3 meters, taking into account varietal characteristics;
• a mixture consisting of earth, superphosphate and ammonium sulphate with ash (replaced with humus) must be poured at the bottom.

Sometimes it is advised to "feed" the bush with iron, using empty cans, nails and unnecessary metal parts. They must first be burned in a fire, then added to the hole with a seedling.

Popular Transplant Methods

The main task of transplantation is to keep the root system of the bush safe and sound, provide it with normal living conditions (light, heat, moisture) in a new place and get an improved berry crop as a result.

There are 3 ways to transplant:

1. Transshipment (a full lump of soil on the roots).
2. With a partial lump.
3. With peeled roots.

The first method is the most humane and effective: there is a painless transfer of the plant from one place to another, the lower part is not injured. For bushes older than 3 years, this technique is not applicable: the clod of earth becomes huge and unbearable.

Preparation of grapes for transplanting by transshipment includes stopping watering (3-4 days before), cutting off the upper part (up to 2-3 buds) with treating the places of cuts with garden pitch. Next, carefully dig around the chubuk, retreating 50-60 centimeters. Breakage of individual (longest) roots is allowed. The lump extracted from the hole is transported to a new place, lowered into the pit, leveled, sprinkled with earth and lightly tamped. Pour out about 20-25 liters (2 buckets) of water, create a layer of mulch (compost, peat) 10 centimeters thick.

2 The following techniques are applicable if the com could not be saved during the extraction (transfer) process. You can also deliberately expose the roots by flooding the vine a day before transplanting. Then they dig a bush (half a meter in all directions), working with a small spatula or a ripper with a narrow blade. It is necessary to damage the rhizome as little as possible, freeing it from the ground.

Regardless of its condition, after removing it from the hole, the injured thick and thin (up to 20 mm thick) sections are trimmed with secateurs, dewy are removed completely. Next, a nutrient solution is prepared from 2 parts of clay and 1 part of cow manure, stirring it until it is even. Then a bush is lowered there.

Impregnation with such a talker has 2 goals: disinfection and destruction of fungal pathogens. The vine is truncated in proportion to the state of the root system, for significant damage and plants aged 10 years or more, pruning is done “on the black head” (below ground level, completely remove the entire top).Excessive "pity" in this case can only hurt: short-cut chibouks smeared with garden pitch will release new shoots, while untreated ones will wither away.

How to transplant grapes in summer?

Replanting shrubs in the summer is considered a forced (and undesirable) measure. But if you know how to properly transplant grapes to another site and scrupulously fulfill all the requirements, then you can try. The choice of location is very important: not in the shade, on the south side of the garden or garden, without tall neighbors nearby. The transfer is carried out in compliance with the main stages: digging the chubuk around, cleaning the roots and preserving the clod of earth.

There are 2 ways to transplant:

1. You will need a steel or galvanized sheet 500 millimeters wide, wire and 2 shovels. It is desirable to carry out the process with an assistant. The metal is rolled into a pipe, the edges are fixed with coils of wire.The soil layer is carefully removed until the first roots appear. Further, it is necessary, having installed the pipe from above, to dig it evenly along the envelope. You should get a circular trench half a meter deep. Then they begin to deepen, trying to reach the root system (50-60 centimeters from the surface). The resulting “cylinder” from the soil and the lower part of the bush will need to be carefully lifted using shovels as levers (shovels are best). Then it remains to be transferred to a new site and lowered into a prepared hole.
2. The second method is quite simple: for its implementation you will need a shovel, humus, potassium permanganate, clay. They begin with the preparation of the future “place of residence”. Poor soil is fed using mineral fertilizers or natural (manure). A seedling, carefully removed from the old site, is kept in a mixture of clay and potassium permanganate (at the same time, this helps to save it if the new site is far away). The upper part is cut off before planting, leaving a minimum of kidneys.Planted as usual, watered and not allowed to stagnate.

Post transplant care

After planting in a new place, the grapes need care: light, watering, protection from pests. Sometimes it is useful to create a drainage system: for this, before planting a seedling, crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pit, and next to the future bush, a pipe segment is strengthened through which nutrients will flow directly to the roots of the plant. Pruning the upper part depends on the condition of the lower part: sometimes it is useful to completely remove the vines and shoots "on the black head", rejuvenate the bush.

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