Climbing rose: planting and care in the open field for beginners

Climbing rose in the backyard - beyond all competition. This flower culture, thanks to its high decorative characteristics and pleasant fragrance, effectively decorates any corner of the garden, creating a romantic mood and delighting with incredibly beautiful flowering. Knowing all the intricacies of planting and caring for a climbing rose in the open field, you can achieve the desired results in the form of a he althy and profusely flowering plant.

Description of climbing rose

This luxurious plant forms perennial lianas several meters long (up to 5 meters), which allows the gardener to decorate any structure on the site in a short time.The branches of a climbing rose are not only long, but, most importantly, quite flexible. It is possible to decorate in this way both arches, and columns, and tapestries, facades of buildings. The climbing rose is especially appreciated in landscaping.

In addition, another advantage of this flower culture is a huge range of colors. Buds can grow in diameter from 2.5 to 12 centimeters. The flowering phase of a climbing rose begins in June and lasts until the end of the warm season, depending on the variety, this period can be 30-170 days.

Conditionally climbing rose is divided into 3 groups:

• The Ramblers. Long creepers bend well, their color is green, there are thorns. The buds exude a mild aroma, no more than 2.5 centimeters in diameter. The flowering stage begins in early summer and lasts 1 month.
• Climers. On 4-meter vines, large buds 4 centimeters in diameter are formed. In shape, they are similar to the flowers of hybrid tea roses. Flowering - double.
• Claimings. This vigorous climbing rose is distinguished by numerous buds, which are 4-11 centimeters in diameter. They are formed individually or in the form of small inflorescences. Popular due to double flowering and high decorative qualities. They endure wintering painlessly.

Color Varieties

Among the most popular varieties of climbing roses:

• Excelso. This is a fast-growing plant with double flowers, which are 3-5 centimeters in diameter. The length of the shoots reaches 4 meters. The color of the buds is bright crimson. Frost resistance is increased, and disease resistance is average.
• Amethyst. Climbing rose blooms once a season. Shoots 3 meters high, thorns are large enough. Terry flowers of a violet-pink climbing rose are collected in groups of 40 pieces, forming luxurious inflorescences of large sizes.The diameter of the buds is almost 5 centimeters. A bush with a high level of frost resistance.
• American Pilar. Climbing rose is characterized by late single flowering. Spherical buds are distinguished by a crimson color, but their middle is lighter with golden stamens. Climbing rose shoots are elongated, grow up to 4 meters, contain large red thorns. Closer to autumn, green leaves change their color to red.
• Blue Magenta. This extraordinarily beautiful bush forms purple-purple buds. Their diameter is 6-7 centimeters. Blooms once a season, is not afraid of cold weather, immunity to diseases is average.
• White Flight. The flowering of the climbing rose is single, the decorative qualities are at a high level, resistance to diseases and low temperatures is average. The buds are pink, their diameter is 3-4 centimeters. The petals have wavy edges.

Pros and cons

Among the positive characteristics of a climbing rose, experienced gardeners highlight:

• lush and abundant flowering;
• most varieties bloom several times a season;
• large buds with a pronounced aroma;
• sufficient level of resistance to diseases and pests;
• high degree of cold resistance;
• variety of varieties.

Among the shortcomings of the climbing rose can be noted:

• presence of large spikes;
• buds fading in the sun.

Features of cultivation

In order for a climbing rose to have a he althy and luxurious look, you need to know how to properly prepare a place for planting, and what further care measures to take.

Optimal time and place to land

Climbing rose seedlings can be planted in both spring and autumn. In areas with a temperate climate, planting work is carried out in late September-early October. And in the northern regions - in the spring, when warm weather sets in.

Given the light-loving nature of climbing roses, it is better to choose a landing site in a clearing well lit and protected from through winds, where the sun shines in the morning. In too hot areas, climbing rose bushes can get burned. Wetlands are also not suitable, since the roots of a branched rose can reach two meters in length and constant exposure to high humidity conditions can provoke the development of putrefactive processes on them.

Soil preparation

If there is poor soil on the site, then organic matter should be added for digging (10-20 kilograms per 1 square meter). These activities should be done in the fall.A climbing rose will not grow on acidic soil; dolomite flour or lime will help normalize the environment at the rate of 500 grams per 1 square meter.

If the soil is chalky, then a mixture of soddy soil and peat, taken in equal proportions, should be added to the hole. Two buckets of this composition use 0.5 liters of bone meal.

Seedling selection

When buying planting material, you should pay attention to the condition of the trunk. Its color should be white-green, but not gray or brown. Before planting, climbing rose seedlings are kept for a day in water. Then the roots are cut to 15 centimeters, and the sections are treated with crushed charcoal.

Roots are prepared in Kornevin's solution. Powerful branches are shortened by 15-20 centimeters, and weak ones are completely cut off.

Disembarkation process

Technology for planting a climbing rose in the ground involves the following steps:

• Digging a hole in a plot prepared in the fall with a depth of 60-65 centimeters and dimensions of 60 × 60 centimeters. Between plants you need to maintain a distance of 3 meters.
• Filling the bottom with a drainage pad (10 cm layer).
• Introduction of a nutrient composition (5 kilograms), peat compost is suitable.
• Placing the seedling in the center of the hole.
• Sprinkling its straightened roots with soil. To avoid the formation of voids, the soil is lightly tamped.
• Water bush with warm water (10 liters).

In order for the climbing rose to overwinter better, the root neck is sprinkled with soil, but no more than 10-12 centimeters.

Further flower care

Caring for branched rose bushes is not so difficult if you take timely irrigation measures, loosening the soil, feeding procedures and cover properly for the winter.

Water and fertilize

The optimal frequency of watering for roses is once a week in moderate dosages (10-20 liters per planting). Moisture stagnation in the soil should not be allowed, otherwise there is a high probability of developing viral ailments and loss of decorative effect. Young bushes, in the first year, fertilize only at the end of summer with ash infusion.

In the second year, the climbing rose is fed with organic matter and mineral compounds, but alternately. And already on the third - only organic fertilizers, for example, for 10 liters of water they take 1 liter of manure and 1 tablespoon of wood ash. The number of procedures is 5 times, fertilizers are not used at the flowering stage.

Support for climbing roses

In order for culture to trudge freely, it needs support. A tripod made of wooden beams 2.5-3 meters long is suitable, as well as an arched structure. The arches look especially beautiful, on the sides of which there are planted rose bushes, the very next year they will quickly braid them.

Transfer

If the plant is uncomfortable, then by transplanting you can correct the situation. Best of all, the manipulation is carried out in September-early October. If necessary, you can transfer the bush to another place in the spring. First, the climbing rose is removed from the supports, dug in a circle, stepping back from the bush 50-60 centimeters. After that, it is carefully removed from the ground and its excess is removed. The algorithm for planting a bush in a new place is the same as for a normal landing.

Loosening

In order to prevent oxygen starvation of the roots of the crop, it is necessary to loosen the soil after each irrigation. It is better to do this 2-3 after watering. Depth of processing of soil of 12 centimeters. If there is a mulching layer - peat, it is periodically replaced with a new one.

Cutting

Manipulation to remove and shorten shoots produced in spring or autumn.Incapacitated parts of the bush, including frozen shoots, are pruned. If the rose blooms once, then after the completion of the flowering phase, the branches of the second order are removed completely. Pruning climbing roses for the winter should be done with a disinfected and sharp tool.

Wintering roses

In dry weather, it is recommended to remove the vines from the supports, collect them in a bundle and tie. When the temperature drops to -5 degrees, then the shoots are bent to the ground, and fixed with staples, pegs. After that, they are covered with agrofiber or film. Such a shelter for climbing roses for the winter is used in regions with severe frosts. But in areas with a warm climate, it is enough to cover with spruce branches and wrap with film material.

Diseases and pests

If you violate agricultural technology, then a climbing rose can overtake:

• Black spot, which is easy to identify by the appeared brown and black foci with yellow edging on the leaves of the bush, shoots. Control measures: removal of infected parts of the plant and the introduction of potassium and phosphate.
• Powdery mildew, which appears as a whitish coating on the vine, leaf plates. In addition, the buds do not open. Control measures: infected areas are removed, the bush is treated with iron or copper sulfate.
• Bacterial cancer, as a result of which growths form on the roots, which leads to the drying of the plant. Control measures: roots damaged by the disease are removed, and the rest are disinfected with copper sulphate.

It is effective to use special fungicidal preparations against spider mites, small aphids, leafworms and rose sawflies.

Reproduction

You can grow a rose garden by seed, cuttings, layering and grafting. The main thing is to know the features of each method.

Seeds

First of all, the seed material should be disinfected by keeping it for 30 minutes in a hydrogen peroxide solution.After that, you need to place the seeds between two cotton pads dipped in hydrogen peroxide, and spread out one "sandwich" in plastic bags. After signing them, you need to put them in a container and put them in the refrigerator on the vegetable shelf.

Periodically, the seeds are inspected, and if mold is detected, cotton pads are replaced. You can expect sprouts to appear as early as 6-8 weeks.

Sprouted seeds are planted in peat pots and perlite is laid on top of the soil, which will prevent the development of the black leg. The containers are placed in a well-lit place and, as the topsoil dries up, watering is carried out. The formation of the first buds is possible 8 weeks after planting, and flowering - after 4-6 weeks. Landing on a permanent place is carried out in the spring.

Shanks

The most common and easiest way to propagate climbing roses is cuttings, even a beginner can handle it.Stems that have already faded and those that are still blooming are suitable as blanks. Cut them in late June-early August at an angle of 45 degrees. The lower oblique cut should be under the kidney, and the upper one should be made straight away from the kidney.

The material should have at least 2 internodes. The upper leaves are shortened by half, and the lower ones are removed. The cuttings are buried in the ground by 1 centimeter, it should consist of sand and earth or one sand. To create a greenhouse effect, it is covered with a glass or plastic container. The stalk should not be under direct sunlight, but it should be well lit. Water it periodically.

Layers

In the spring, above the bud, you need to make an incision in the stem so that the depth and width are 10-15 centimeters. Then a layer of humus is poured into the groove and covered with soil. In this case, the escape must be securely fixed in two or three places.The main thing is that its upper part remains open. Layers are regularly irrigated, and the next spring they are separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

Inoculation on wild rose

Budding is performed in late July-early August. Before the procedure, the wild rose is abundantly moistened. After that, a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar.

At this point, the bark is carefully removed, and placed in an incision in the eye with a piece of bark and wood, taken from a rose cutting. Then they wrap it with budding material and spud a rosehip bush, adding soil in such a way that the grafting zone is covered by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is allowed, and in the spring it is completely removed.

Landscape use

If the climbing rose is large, then it is planted in a single copy in an open area. The rose looks especially impressive in tandem with other tree plantations.Climbing rose bushes planted in a row beautifully ennoble the perimeter of the site, paths. Hedges and vertical gardening are undeniably winning options for climbing roses.

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