Why chrysanthemums do not bloom in the open field: reasons, how to speed up, varieties, top dressing

The flowering period of chrysanthemums begins at the end of August and lasts until October. Some varieties bloom later. Unfortunately, it happens that the long-awaited flowering never comes. Novice gardeners are often interested in why chrysanthemums in the open field do not bloom. This can be caused by various factors, each of which is worth reading in detail.

Main reasons

Among the main reasons for the lack of flowering of chrysanthemums are mistakes in choosing a place, lack of space between seedlings, improper or insufficient care, diseases or pests. In each situation, the right solution to the problem should be found.

Tightness

Over time, chrysanthemum bushes grow strongly. In conditions of shortage of free space, the volume of nutrient soil allocated for each plant decreases. The consequence of this is a lack of oxygen and nutrients needed by flowers. In addition, plant thick becomes vulnerable to pests. To avoid this, you should not grow chrysanthemums in the same place for more than three years.

The problem of crowding will be solved by plant transplantation. Chrysanthemum quickly sprouts new sprouts. After transplanting, growth and flowering become more intense.

The best time to transplant is spring. In this case, a well-rooted plant will grow by next autumn and will delight with abundant flowering.

Wrong place on the street

Chrysanthemum runs the risk of not blooming if it grows in a too dark place with high humidity. It is better to plant it on a hill, moderately lit by the sun and blown by the wind.

Not enough nutritious soil

Deficiency of useful nutrients in the composition of the soil adversely affects the flowering of garden chrysanthemums. The soil becomes depleted if the chrysanthemums grow too long in their original places. Therefore, the supply of nutrients responsible for normal flowering is completely exhausted. The solution to the problem will be transplanting or feeding the plant.

Heavy watering during bud formation

During the budding period, the chrysanthemum needs some water. If you water it too often and in large quantities, flowering will stop. Instead, the plant will noticeably lengthen the stem and increase the leaves.

Diseases

Despite the fact that chrysanthemums are resistant to most diseases, sometimes this factor prevents the beginning of flowering.

Fusariosis is a fungal disease, the causative agent of which penetrates from the soil through the roots and prevents the flow of water into the plant tissues. As a result, the leaves turn yellow or brown prematurely, plant growth slows down, flowers are unable to form. Universal fungicidal solutions are used for treatment and prevention.

Mosaic is a dangerous viral disease that causes leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Flowers can form, but they are too small and inconspicuous.

As a preventive measure, it is recommended to use only high-quality planting material, plant flowers at a considerable distance from each other, and timely destroy insect carriers of the disease.

Wrong climate for variety

Some varieties of garden chrysanthemums react painfully to changing climatic conditions. Exotic flowers brought from abroad may not feel well.Therefore, in order for the chrysanthemum to please with beautiful and stable flowering, it is better to give preference to those varieties that are well adapted to the conditions of the local climate.

The most favorable for chrysanthemums is a warm, not hot climate with moderate humidity. In such conditions, it blooms earlier and pleases others with its beauty for a long time.

How to speed up flowering

There are some simple chrysanthemum care secrets that help speed up flowering.

Choosing a place in the garden

When choosing a suitable place for a chrysanthemum in the garden, criteria such as humidity level, degree of illumination and favorable conditions should be taken into account.

Equally important is the quality and composition of the soil in the garden. It should be:

moisture permeable;
loose;
nutritious;
slightly acidic or neutral.

Illumination

The consequences of insufficient lighting are:

pulling shoots;
weakening of plant structure;
Delay characteristic flowering periods.

Chrysanthemums feel most comfortable in a sunny area located on a small hill.

Temperature conditions

The most favorable temperature for the growth and flowering of chrysanthemums:

in sunny weather - from +16 °С to +25 °С;
in cloudy conditions - up to +20 °С;
at night - within + 16-17 °С.

In case of excess of +25 degrees, the inflorescences of chrysanthemums burn out. The flowering period is shortened. At low temperatures, growth slows down, inflorescences are poorly formed, remaining soft and loose.Combined with high humidity, low temperatures increase the plant's susceptibility to powdery mildew, gray mold and other ailments.

Humidity

It is highly undesirable to plant chrysanthemums in shady places where there is a possibility of moisture retention. In conditions of excessive dampness, they problematic endure wintering. Drought also adversely affects bud formation and subsequent flowering.

Which top dressing to choose

Beginning gardeners often have the question of how to feed a chrysanthemum for good flowering. Different means are used at different times of the year.

In the spring, it is required to enrich the soil with organic fertilizers. You need to bring them to a considerable depth.

From mineral fertilizers, nitrogen-containing options are needed at the initial stage of development. They help accelerate climbing, increase the number of young shoots, and also provide color saturation for the plant.When performing nitrogenous top dressing, it is necessary to avoid getting the product on the aerial parts of the plant, as this is fraught with burns.

In the summer, you need to minimize the use of nitrogen so that the stems of the plant do not become too long and the flowers small. Instead, give preference to potassium. Favorable for the flowering of chrysanthemums is a special regulator "Bud".

At the end of summer and early autumn, it is necessary to completely eliminate nitrogen from the diet of chrysanthemums. During this period, the main focus should be on potassium and phosphorus. One square meter of garden space requires 40 g of potassium and 25 g of phosphorus.

Treatment against aphids

Aphids are a dangerous enemy of chrysanthemum, feeding on vegetable juice. As a result, the flower is dehydrated and deprived of nutrients and minerals. This leads to drying of the shoots, deformation of the leaves and falling off of the buds.Usually pests are localized on the lower part of the leaves of the plant, where you can see their accumulation.

To combat aphids, there is a wide selection of special chemicals - "Aktara", "Metaphos", "Karbofos", "Phosphomid", "Confidor" and others. The packaging of each of the products contains detailed instructions, following which you need to prepare the solution.

It is necessary to treat the chrysanthemum with the resulting solution from the root part to the tips of the leaves and the uppermost buds.

In addition to ready-made chemical insecticides, there are many folk methods for dealing with aphids. The following options are recognized as the most effective:

Ammonia, diluted with water in proportions 1:10. This solution must be filled with a spray bottle, and then used to spray the plants. After 2-3 days, it is recommended to process the plant again.
Chop 2-3 garlic cloves, pour 250 ml of hot water and infuse for 1.5 hours. Then filter and dilute with water to reach a liter volume. During the day, use for spraying chrysanthemums with an interval of 3-4 hours.
Dry and chop the citrus peel. Pour a liter of boiling water and put in a dark place to infuse for three days. After that, strain the resulting infusion and use it to irrigate chrysanthemums.

Dividing the bush

The easiest and most effective way to propagate chrysanthemums is to divide the bush. It is recommended to perform it every three years. This will give the seedlings vitality and improve flowering.

For division, only he althy bushes must be selected, with no signs of disease or damage by pests. From one three-year-old plant, you can get up to 5-6 cuttings.

The mother bush must be dug up and divided into separate parts with shoots and formed roots. The resulting seedlings must be fixed in open ground, after filling the planting holes with humus. After planting, the plant is watered.

When dividing a bush in autumn, it is required to cover young seedlings with spruce or oak branches.

How to properly store in winter

Successful wintering of chrysanthemums is the key to their rich flowering next year. For different varieties of plants, different methods of winter storage should be selected:

outdoor with cover;
in the basement;
in the trenches.

Frost-resistant varieties are able to spend the entire winter period in the open field. However, for this they need a reliable shelter, so in the fall you need to prepare dry leaves in large quantities. A leafy layer half a meter thick must be laid on the bushes as soon as the first frosts begin.

On top of the leaves you need to lay additional shelter - it can be a household plastic wrap, thin dried branches or a vine. This provides protection against gusts of wind.

Optimal for most varieties is storage in the basement. Place must meet the requirements:

maintaining air temperature from 0 to +4 degrees;
good ventilation and normal humidity;
free from pests and fungus.

If all requirements are met, do the following:

After flowering, cut off the flower stalks, leaving no more than 10 cm. Treat the cut site with a fungicide or iodine to prevent infection.
Dig up the roots along with the earthen clod.
Leave them to dry in a dry open place for several days.
If infestation with pests is suspected, treat with insecticidal preparations.
Fill the floor of the basement (or cellar) with a layer of soil, and then spread the rhizomes evenly over it.
1-2 times a month inspect chrysanthemums.

Back to the ground, plants are planted in the spring, as soon as stable warm weather is established.

Another way is wintering in trenches. The optimal width is from 50 to 70 centimeters, and the length is arbitrary and depends on the number of chrysanthemum bushes. Rhizomes need to be carefully dug up and placed in a trench tightly to each other. The remaining free space between the roots is filled with nutrient soil. Plants can be stored open until the first frost.

Then it is recommended to cover them with improvised materials, for example, pieces of slate. On top you need to lay a layer of dry leaves and cover with a film. This will create an optimal microclimate with the required temperature and humidity for the whole winter.

Plant pot

An excellent choice for indoor chrysanthemums is a medium-sized pot made of clay or ceramic material with a concise design.This plant has a shallow root system, so narrow and tall pots are not suitable for it. Avoid flat, low bowls as the bottom needs good drainage.

How to choose the right variety

When choosing a variety of chrysanthemum, compatibility with local climatic conditions and other factors should be considered.

The following varieties are most popular:

Regina White - an elegant snow-white flower with a stem height of up to 60 cm.
Anastasia. Large-flowered variety with a rich color range. There are pink, lilac, white, yellow and green specimens.
Crown chrysanthemum - a bush variety with small lush inflorescences that are white or light green in color.

Diseases and pests

Pests and diseases are dangerous for chrysanthemum flowering. Therefore, it is necessary to deal with them in a timely manner, choosing effective methods.

Root rot

The causative agent of root rot in chrysanthemums is a parasitic complex of fungi Rhizoctonia solani. The disease develops in conditions of close plantings, excessive humidity and too high temperatures.

As a fight against infection, it is necessary to carry out a soil disinfection procedure with Bazamid or Formalin. For prevention, it is necessary to maintain a favorable balance of air and water regimes.

Bud baldness

This problem can be caused by various factors - diseases, pests or violations of the rules for caring for a flower. In any case, if the chrysanthemum buds develop poorly or are completely bald, all flower stalks must be removed.

Rust

Characteristic brown spots on shoots, flowers and leaves indicate infection with a fungal infection such as rust. All infected parts of the plant must be removed and treated with fungicides.

Septoria

Another dangerous disease of a fungal nature. Infected parts of the plant first acquire a brown tint, then blacken and begin to die. The solution will be the destruction of the affected areas and the subsequent treatment of the plant with "Fundazol" or another antifungal agent. To prevent infection of other plants, a diseased specimen must be quarantined for two weeks. After the course of treatment, the flower should be washed with a warm shower and watered.

Aphids, scale insects, spider mites

Antikleshch, Fitoverm, Neoron preparations are effective against these pests. You can also use folk remedies for spraying plants - an infusion of garlic and onion peel, a decoction of yarrow and dandelion roots, as well as a solution of laundry soap.

Artificial stimulation of flowering

If late varieties of chrysanthemums do not have time to bloom, you can use methods of artificial stimulation of flowering.

Growth and flowering stimulants available in gardening stores and departments can make plants bloom prematurely. You need to use them according to the instructions so as not to harm the chrysanthemum.

The second method involves periodic pruning of bushes. As a result, buds will grow faster.