Containing rabbits in cages for beginners: pros and cons, rules

Containing rabbits in cages is especially convenient for beginner rabbit breeders. This method differs from the techniques that are used when keeping animals free-range or in aviaries. Cells are equipped in personal plots using ordinary building materials. Keeping rabbits requires owners to create the necessary conditions and comply with the rules.

Pros and cons of cell content

Cage keeping is the most sought after type of pet care. Experienced breeders believe that growing indoors helps protect rabbits from contracting the various diseases that the species is susceptible to.

Cellular content has its advantages and disadvantages.

Pros and consRationing the amount of feed. Feeders installed inside each individual block help control the amount of feed consumed. Individual distribution is good because the owner immediately understands that one of the animals is stunted, consumes less vitamins or refuses to eat due to illness.Disease control. If the animal is ill, then the owner has the opportunity to resettle him to the quarantine area without harm to the other rabbits. Solitary housing minimizes the risk of infection of the entire population.Reproduction control. Breeders monitor the condition of the wards and can independently plan the periods when to mate. To do this, the female is specially placed with the male, then they are taken back.Daily cell cleaning. It takes a lot of time to process, since it is necessary to wash each feeder, clean the surface of each block.Animal weight gain. Due to lack of space, physical activity is reduced, which inevitably leads to weight gain.

Attention! Researchers claim that cage content leads to a decrease in natural immunity, since rabbits do not communicate with each other.

What cells should be like

Cellular maintenance involves the use of specially made blocks that can be located outside during the warm season or located on the territory of buildings when cold weather approaches. Types of blocks for rabbits are conditionally classified according to several criteria:

for young animals;
uterine type;
for adult rabbits;
when males are resettled.

The best option is to make a "two-room house" when the crate is divided into 2 parts by a partition. On the right they have a play area with a feeder and a toilet, on the left they free up space for bedding and free movement.

Optimal sizes

Cages are made according to standard sizes, where the height of one block is 35-40 centimeters, and the length is 1 meter 20 centimeters. At the same time, breeders who make their own cages prefer to change the length and height depending on the purpose of the block:

for adults: 140 by 60 by 50 centimeters;
for rabbits: 200 by 100 by 35 centimeters.

Where to buy ready-made cages

Construction firms and rabbit farms are engaged in the production of ready-made cages. Blocks of wood, metal blocks, and modular mini-farms designed for breeding can be purchased through intermediaries or directly.

Selection of a place for a rabbitry and construction of cages

The area intended for raising rabbits and installing cages must meet basic standards. According to the regulations, the area of the mini-corral should not exceed 40 square meters and be at least 15 meters away from the main buildings.

Criteria for seat selection:

high humidity is excluded, so the place should not be located in the lowlands, on marshy soils;
the formation of drafts is excluded, therefore the walls are covered with special anti-wind structures or cages are installed near the walls of buildings;
rabbits need sunlight, but they cannot tolerate direct sunlight, so cages are placed where they are provided with partial shade.

Houses are usually installed on wooden or metal legs, this technique helps protect animals from attacks by rodents and insect pests.

For females, it is customary to purchase or make two-section blocks with a round hole between rooms. Queen cells are equipped with a retractable door or box, so that it is more convenient to pull out the offspring for resettlement.For adult males, larger cages are made with two sections and a partition in the middle. There are double cages that are used in the summer for the settlement of adults. On the side of the main frame, a special nest is made, covered with fine mesh and lined with straw.

Information! Experienced breeders recommend purchasing frames designed for 6-8 blocks, and not placing one cage on top of another, as beginner breeders do.

How to start growing from scratch

To start breeding rabbits, you need to prioritize correctly. There are meat, fur and meat-fur breeds. The choice of breed is determined by the purpose of cultivation.

Before purchasing, you should carefully prepare: choose a place, purchase modules for keeping, calculate and purchase food. In addition, you will need to purchase special vitamin complexes and provide for scheduled vaccinations.

Keeping and breeding rabbits at home

Breeders pay special attention to catering. A well-designed diet allows the animal to quickly gain weight and build up valuable fur.

Feeding is organized according to a special schedule, taking into account the time of year:

Summer. The diet is based on the formula: 30% concentrates, 30% green food, 20% succulent food, 10% coarse fibers.
In winter. The main part of the diet is compound feed, silage, warm mixers and vitamin and mineral supplements are added to it.

The first meal is set at 6 o'clock in the morning. Rabbits are given food 3 times a day, this rule does not apply to young rabbits who are inseparable from their mother. At the same time, the need for rabbits to drink should be taken into account. The drinker should be full throughout the day.

Attention! It is forbidden to feed rabbits with wet grass, milkweed, milk, seeds, mushrooms, bread, nuts.

Rabbits are kept for breeding, so the process of mating is one of the most important stages throughout the entire rearing. Mating is carried out upon reaching puberty. In some breeds, it falls on the age of 3.5 months. But mating is not recommended before the female reaches 5 months of age.

Rules for mating:

female reaches estrus when she begins to lose her appetite, pinching her own fluff;
the female is brought to the male, all accessories are removed from the cage;
temperature regime ideal for mating is +24-25 degrees;
after mating, the male falls sideways - this is a sign that the female needs to be taken out of the cage;
after 5 days, the female is brought back to the male and the behavior is observed: if the female avoids proximity, then this is considered a sure sign of pregnancy.

After diagnosing pregnancy, it is necessary to resettle the rabbit in a special cage. She will bear offspring for 28-30 days. During pregnancy, the rabbit needs additional vitamins and minerals. Before giving birth, she begins to equip the nest, plucks out the fluff and covers it to the bottom of the cage. After the appearance of rabbits, breeders need to carefully monitor the he alth of the offspring. The young are left with the female until they are 2.5 months of age.

Rabbits are prone to various infections, so preventive work to prevent diseases is a necessary point of care.

One option is routine vaccination:

when reaching the age of 45 days - vaccination against hemorrhagic disease, revaccination - after 2 weeks;
2 months - vaccination against myxomatosis, revaccination - after 3 months.

Regular inspection, analysis of behavior and appearance helps to determine in time if the rabbit is sick. If it shows signs of infection, then it is necessary to place the animal in quarantine. It should be remembered that only he althy individuals are vaccinated, so frail and weak animals are placed in quarantine conditions without fail.