Zucchini: cultivation and care in the open field with video and photos

To get a good crop of zucchini, growing and caring for them in the open field is not particularly difficult, it is necessary to follow important agrotechnical rules. The vegetable is unpretentious, bears fruit in almost any conditions and with minimal care. To increase the yield of zucchini, you need to apply some knowledge and make a little physical effort.

Preparation and sowing procedure for zucchini seeds

Although growing zucchini is not a difficult process, for good fruiting, you will need to create a number of conditions.This culture will actively develop in warm sunny areas that are protected from the winds. It is necessary to provide for the possibility of regular and abundant watering.

Soil preparation

To increase the yield of zucchini, you need to choose the right place for growing them. It is best to prepare the bed in advance in the fall, but this can also be done in the spring, about a week before planting. The culture loves fertile rich soils with neutral acidity.

It will not grow on poor lands, so when digging it is necessary to apply appropriate fertilizers. Their type and number depend on the size of the plot and the qualitative composition of the available soil.

The following components should be added to the composition of sandy soils per 1 m²:

• 2-3 kg sawdust or compost;
• 2 tbsp. l. ash;
• 1 tbsp l. phosphorus additives (superphosphate);
• 1 bucket of peat and turf garden soil each.

To grow zucchini in open ground with a predominance of a peat component, the following fertilizers per 1 m² will be required:

• 2 kg of compost or manure;
• 1 bucket of sod land;
• 2 tbsp. l. wood ash;
• 1 tsp each potash (potassium sulfate) and phosphate fertilizers.

If the soil is loamy, then you need to add 1 m²:

• 3 kg of peat;
• 2 kg of sawdust and rotted compost each;
• 2 tbsp. l. ash;
• 1 tbsp l. phosphate fertilizers.

Chernozems are diluted with the following components (per 1 m²):

• 2 kg sawdust;
• 2 tbsp. l. wood ash;
• 1 tbsp l. superphosphate or other nitrogenous fertilizer.

On the surface of the beds, all components are first evenly scattered, except for mineral granules. Then they dig to a depth of at least 25-30 cm, level and well shed with mineral fertilizer diluted with warm water (about +40 ° C). To retain moisture and heat, the bed is covered with plastic wrap until planting.

Crop rotation and compatibility with other crops

Competent agrotechnics for growing zucchini excludes their placement on the same site earlier than in 3-4 years. They will feel good and develop well after many garden plants. You can not plant this crop where melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelons and other melons grew. Specific bacteria remaining from previous relatives can infect squash plantings.The best predecessors for bush zucchini are: potatoes, onions, carrots, cabbage, cereals, green herbs.

Preparation of zucchini seeds

Sowing zucchini is done when the air temperature no longer drops below +10 … +12 ° С, this time in most regions falls on the end of May and the beginning of June. In the northern regions, planting dates often shift to early July. In order to improve germination and speed up the harvest time, it is necessary to prepare the seed material in advance in a special way.

The seed preparation technology consists of the following manipulations:

• seeds are carefully sorted out, rejecting empty and damaged ones;
• soaked for a few minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, pop-up specimens are thrown away;
• seeds that have settled to the bottom of the container are removed and re-soaked in a solution of any growth stimulant (Epin, Zircon and others) for 20-30 minutes;
• then the seeds are filtered, rinsed with lukewarm water and wrapped in a damp cloth to swell for several hours;
• swollen, but not yet sprouted seed is placed in the refrigerator for stratification for 2 days (at a temperature of about 0 ° C);
• then the bundle is placed in a well-lit warm place (on the windowsill) for several days, the fabric is periodically moistened;
• when the roots reach a length of about 0.5-1 cm, the seeds can be planted.

Sprouted seeds should be planted as soon as possible, this process cannot be delayed. Since the roots grow quickly, then when planting they can intertwine with each other and break off. A damaged seed will no longer sprout.

The procedure for sowing zucchini in open ground

When the temperature is stable and warm outside, it's planting time for zucchini. In order to obtain an earlier harvest, it is recommended to grow this crop in seedlings. Sprouted seeds are sown in individual containers (peat pots, plastic cups, etc.) in advance, about 2-3 weeks before the expected date of planting in open ground. Then they are placed at home on the windowsill or in the greenhouse.

Grown seedlings are planted in the ground in the area when warm weather sets in, and covered with agrofiber or film.

Agricultural technology for growing zucchini in a seedless way involves sowing directly into the ground. At a distance of at least 0.7-1 m from each other, wide and shallow holes are made, into each of which you need to add a little wood ash and humus (2-3 tablespoons each), then shed a light pink weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.2-3 seeds are placed in the hole, after sprouts appear, 1 strongest is left, and the extra ones are removed.

If the threat of frost persists, then the crops are covered with foil. You can close each seedling with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle.

Agrotechnics for growing zucchini in the open field

With proper agricultural technology, the number of days from planting to harvesting the first fruit can be reduced and a fresh, useful harvest can be obtained much earlier. Proper cultivation technology will provide not only early vegetables, but also greater yields.

Follow-up care for planting zucchini consists of the following procedures:

• timely and regular watering;
• weeding and thinning green mass;
• top dressing (before budding, during flowering and pollination, during ripening and fruit picking).

Care for zucchini before flowering

To get more flower ovaries, you need to properly care for zucchini. After germination and before budding, young plants are fed several times. Mineral nitrogenous and organic fertilizers are used. Nitrophoska is used as a nitrogen-containing substance, it is diluted with water (30 g per 10 l). The best organic matter for feeding will be mullein, which is diluted with hot water in a ratio of 1:10, then allowed to infuse for 3-4 hours. After dilution in a ratio of 1: 5, plants are watered with infusion.

1 liter of liquid is enough for 1 bush. The nutritious water composition is poured directly under the root, avoiding the solution getting on the leaves. The best effect can be achieved by alternating different types of fertilizers.

How to feed zucchini during flowering?

To attract insects that pollinate plants during flowering, it is recommended to spray the leaves and flowers with a sweet composition (use a solution of honey or sugar - 1 tsp per 1 glass of water). To improve access to the buds, it is advised to remove a few leaves from the center of the bush.

Flowering zucchini is fed with a composition prepared from 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium nitrate. Each plant consumes up to 1.5 liters of solution. You can insist 60 g of wood ash per 10 liters of water, then add Effecton to the liquid (according to the instructions) and water the bushes with this mixture at the rate of 1 liter per 1 plant.

How to care for zucchini during fruiting?

An important point in the agricultural technology of growing zucchini is top dressing during fruiting. For this, the following compositions of mineral complexes are used:

• in 1 bucket of water dilute 2 tbsp. l. universal fertilizer (Agricola vegeta and others) and 2 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, then poured under the root (2 l per bush);
• in 1 bucket of water dissolve 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, double superphosphate and urea (1 l per 1 bush).

Feeding zucchini with organic matter (mullein) is carried out according to the previous scheme. During the harvest period, the crop needs foliar fertilizers with growth stimulants (2 liters per 10 m²), the bushes are sprayed at intervals of 10-12 days.

Irrigation

Until the fruits begin to ripen, the plants are watered once a week. For 1 bush you need to spend about 2 liters of water. You can combine moisturizing with top dressing. Water only with a warm solution, because the ovary rots from cold water. With the onset of fruiting, watering is increased to 2-3 times a week. For 1 bush it will already take from 3 to 5 liters.

But zucchini also do not like excessive dampness, when growing foliage should be well ventilated. Therefore, until the leaves close between the rows, weeds are removed at least three times between the rows. If this procedure is not carried out on time, then it will not be possible to do this without traumatizing the sheet plates. Thickened and overgrown plantings are prone to various fungal diseases and pest attacks.

Caring for zucchini in the open field: video

The quantity and quality of the zucchini crop largely depend on compliance with the growing technology and knowledge of some important nuances. For example, it is not recommended to loosen the soil under the bushes, let alone hill them. The root system of this culture is branched and superficial, so it is easy to damage it. The plant will suffer from incorrect agrotechnical manipulations.

Diseases and pests, methods of protection and prevention

Pumpkin cultures are quite often affected by various fungal diseases, and are also attacked by insect pests. Caring for zucchini includes a number of preventive measures, consisting in observing crop rotation, timely and thorough removal of all plant residues.

Most often, zucchini suffer from the following diseases:

1. Powdery mildew. The disease is manifested by a loose grayish-white coating, which turns brown over time. The leaves curl and dry up, the fruits stop growing and become deformed. The reason is sharp temperature jumps and an excess of nitrogen. Spraying with colloidal sulfur or fungicide solution (Bayleton, Topsin-M and others) helps. If necessary, the procedure is carried out twice with an interval of 2 weeks.
2. Black mold. Symptoms are rounded or angular yellow-rusty spots, which eventually become black-brown, then the leaves crumble and crumble. The fruits stop growing and shrivel. The disease is not cured, damaged bushes must be destroyed.
3. Bacteriosis. Oily spots form on the leaves, darkening with time. The fruits become glassy, ulcerate and rot. Warm and humid weather becomes a provoking factor. Treatment with Bordeaux liquid (1%) helps.
4. Sclerotinia (white rot). A white fungus coating covers all green parts of the plant, including the ovaries, which first soften and then dry out. The fungus often affects overly dense plantings, as well as during prolonged wet and cold weather. Affected bushes are immediately removed and burned.
5. Anthracnose. Brownish-yellow rounded spots appear on the leaf plates, which, when dried, turn into holes. Then the entire green mass is affected, the fruits dry up on the vine. The development of the disease is provoked by wet, but hot weather. For the fight, spraying with Bordeaux liquid (1%) and dusting with finely ground sulfur (20-30 g per 10 m²) are used.

Crop can be oppressed by insect pests:

1. Melon aphid. Damages the entire green above-ground part, which gradually dries out. Spraying with infusion of potato tops, onions, garlic, hot hot peppers, dusting with tobacco dust and treating with a solution of laundry soap (300 g per bucket of water) help. When a large number of pests appear, insecticides are used (Decis, Karbofos).
2. Whiteflies. Insects leave a sticky, sugary coating on the back of the leaf blades. Traces of their vital activity become a breeding ground for the development of fungal infections, leading to wilting of foliage. The spots are washed off with plain water, the ground under the bushes is loosened 2 cm deep. In case of severe damage, after harvesting the fruits, the plants and the soil under them are sprayed with insecticidal preparations (Commander).
3. Slugs. Insects eat flowers, leaves and stems of zucchini, spoil the presentation of fruits and carry infections.As a preventive measure, frightening crops (mustard, garlic, lavender) are planted nearby. They set up various traps and collect pests by hand. Ground mustard, pepper, crushed eggshells, and pine needles are scattered around the bushes. As a last resort, use copper sulfate or superphosphate.

Harvesting and storing zucchini

Zucchini is harvested as the fruit grows throughout the season. The most useful and tasty are unripe vegetables from 15 to 25 cm long, while they still have a thin skin and delicate small seeds. Harvesting such specimens stimulates the bush for the rapid growth of other fruits and the formation of more ovaries.

Young zucchini are meant to be eaten quickly and can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Few people know how to harvest properly.You can’t just pick the fruits, the stem is so badly damaged and an infection can get into the wound. Experts recommend cutting vegetables with a sharp knife. Not quite ripe zucchini are cut off at the very base of the stalk, a tail of at least 5-7 cm is left more ripe.

Vegetables intended for long winter storage should be allowed to fully ripen. The degree of maturity and when it is time to store the zucchini is determined by the thick, hard rind and the corresponding booming sound when tapped. After cutting, the ripened fruits are left to lie in the garden for 5-7 days so that they warm up well in the sun, and the skin hardens even more.

Thick bark will prevent the penetration of pathogenic bacteria into the vegetable and will contribute to longer storage. Periodically, the fruits need to be turned over. To increase the keeping quality, the ends of the remaining stalks are dipped in melted paraffin.

Store zucchini in a dry cellar or basement with good exhaust ventilation. The fruits are laid out on shelves lined with paper or straw, hung in nets (possible for the remaining long stem) to the ceiling or placed in boxes, sprinkling vegetables with sawdust (they should not touch). If it is not possible to keep the crop in a special room, then you can store zucchini in the apartment. To do this, they are placed in a dry and dark place (under the bed, closet, in the closet, at the balcony door).

Some fruits can be stored in the refrigerator. Wrapped in pre-perforated polyethylene, they are placed in the vegetable compartment. Properly grown and well-ripened zucchini can last until fresh harvest. But in the spring, the seeds inside the fruits begin to sprout, and the flesh acquires a bitter taste.

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