How to care for remontant raspberries for a good harvest

Raspberry is a delicious, he althy berry, thanks to selection work it can be present on the tables all summer and autumn. Remontant varieties are characterized by abundant and long, almost uninterrupted fruiting. How to properly care for remontant raspberries in order to get a good harvest and extend the life of the bushes, you should know in advance.

What is the difference between remontant raspberries?

Remontant raspberry varieties differ from others in the ability to form berries on annual and biennial shoots, bloom repeatedly and bear fruit abundantly during the summer-autumn period, some until the first frost.In varieties of remontant breeding, young shoots grow annually from the underground part of the bush, in which, along with the adult bush, a crop of raspberries is formed at the top.

By winter, on a young shoot, the upper fruiting part dries out, the next year forming, like in ordinary varieties, additional branching shoots on which berries appear, but smaller in size than in the previous year. Therefore, the value of remontant raspberries lies in fruiting large, tasty berries on young shoots.

Advantages and disadvantages of culture

Repair raspberry is a very popular crop among farmers and private households due to its many advantages over conventional varieties.

Advantages of remontant raspberry varieties:

• berries are larger than normal;
• boosting harvest with high quality, delicious berries;
• multiple fruiting, 2 times per season;
• resistance to diseases and pest attack;
• high frost resistance, does not require shelter for the winter;
• possibility to grow as an annual crop;
• fruits the next year after planting;
• produces little root shoots, which allows you not to thicken the planting of bushes.

Disadvantages of raspberry remontant varieties:

• high cost of seedlings;
• must monitor soil acidity, prune properly and fertilize frequently;
• landing place must be sunny;
• taste qualities of berries are variable and depend on many factors, weather, care, planting site;
• difficult to propagate, some varieties barely produce new shoots.

How much remontant raspberry grows

After planting the bushes, the seedlings quickly adapt and give the first abundant harvest the next year. In one year, remontant varieties go through a full growing cycle. The first fruiting occurs on biennial shoots, the second - on young ones. Raspberries of remontant varieties with good care and a change of place every 4-5 years will bear fruit for 10-12 years.

Under adverse conditions, the wrong place, overfeeding with fertilizers or in their absence, the period of fruiting and life of raspberries will be 3-4 years.

We plant raspberries in the area

Remontant raspberry is a stronger, unpretentious plant, but you should still observe agricultural practices, planting dates, site and soil selection, planting technique, caring for it.

When to plant crops

The timing of planting remontant raspberry varieties may be shifted depending on weather conditions and the region.Gardeners plant in spring and autumn, the main condition for such plantings is high-quality remontant raspberry material, suitable soil conditions and a place. Planting in open ground or in a greenhouse in each season has its own nuances.

Outdoor

Tips on choosing the time of planting remontant raspberry seedlings in the open field and caring for them.

Spring planting of raspberries is recommended for the Northern regions, the Urals, Siberia, the Far East, where heavy frosts are possible in autumn, in September:

• Before the start of the growing season, before buds appear, from mid-April to the first decade of May.
• After the weather stabilizes, the threat of frost passes, the sunny day will lengthen to 12 hours a day, and the soil temperature will be 12-15 degrees.
• It is possible to plant at the end of May - the first half of June, but only those seedlings of remontant raspberries that were stored in cold chambers and their growing season has not yet begun, that is, they were at rest.

After planting in the spring, in accordance with the agrotechnical manual, it will be easier to care for remontant raspberries in the summer, except for watering and inspecting for pests, nothing is required until autumn.

Autumn planting is suitable for regions located in the south, west, southeast, southwest. This is done 15-20 days before the first frost, the best time is the end of September - the first decade of October.

Since the climate in the southern regions is milder and warmer, not only autumn planting, but also spring planting can be carried out here, starting from mid-March. Autumn care for remontant raspberries after planting comes down to the last nutritious watering and preparing shelter for it.

In spring it is better to plant medium-late and late varieties of remontant raspberries, which adapt until autumn, go through the growing season and can even bring the first crop on young shoots.In autumn, varieties with early ripening are planted, before the first frosts the bushes adapt, go into a state of dormancy, and by spring vegetation processes will begin, which will give impetus to rapid growth and the first harvest of berries.

In the greenhouse

For greenhouse cultivation, early varieties are preferred, which can be planted in spring and autumn, but in the same way as in open ground, before the start of the growing season. Spring planting, from March to mid-May, autumn planting from late September to the third decade of October. Such cultivation of remontant raspberries is used to obtain a crop from late spring to late autumn, but you can also use the method of continuous production of berries. To do this, planting is carried out from mid-January, then in March, at the end of May, in a conveyor way.

Shoots that have been harvested are cut and left dormant until further growth and fruiting.

The advantages of growing in a greenhouse are many: early harvest until late autumn, no influence of weather changes. The disadvantage of the method is that raspberries do not have a strong, bright aroma.

In the greenhouse, you can carry out both autumn planting of remontant raspberries, starting from the first days of October, it does not require additional lighting, you just need to observe the temperature regime of 22-25 degrees, and spring.

Suitable soil for remontant raspberries

Remontant raspberry is whimsical in the choice of soil, as it bears a lot and plentifully, it needs more nutrients. The soil should be fertile, rich, moist, loose, light, preferably black soil with an acidity level of 5.5 and not more than 6.5. Also, the bushes will grow in loamy and sandy soils, but with a lower yield, although this can be corrected by applying organic fertilizers to the planting site and during the season.

Site selection and hole preparation

As for the site for raspberry remontant varieties, it should be sunny, but if the soils are dry, it is better to choose with partial shade or partial shade during the day. Side south, southeast, southwest in the garden. A place is chosen near the fence or trellises are installed for tying bushes. It should be borne in mind that raspberries will begin to grow gradually, which means that it is not worth planting next to a place intended for growing garden crops, shrubs.

Plant pattern

The scheme for planting remontant raspberries depends on the number of seedlings and the goals pursued:

1. single-row;
2. two-row;
3. trench;
4. pithole;
5. nesting;
6. curtain (in the form of natural thickets).

Single-row and double-row remontant planting systems are more often used when growing raspberries in large volumes over a large area. They dig a long ditch 40-45 cm deep, for a single-row ditch 40-50 cm wide, for a double-row ditch - 80-100 cm. A mixture of peat, humus, ash and top soil is laid out at the bottom of the ditch.

If the soil is too acidic, then add slaked lime (fluff, dolomite flour, chalk). In a single-row scheme, raspberry seedlings are planted in the center of the ridge at a distance of 35-50 cm, sprinkled with soil and watered abundantly. The two-row scheme involves planting raspberry seedlings in 2 rows of one ditch at a distance of 40-50 cm between each row.

The trench scheme is similar to a single-row, but differs in the depth of the ditch and the amount of organic fertilizer applied, which are laid out in layers for long-term nutrition of the bushes.

The hole scheme is used in private garden plots when the number of seedlings and space is limited.The site is dug up with the addition of organic or synthetic fertilizers, after which holes are dug up to a depth of 50 cm, with a diameter of 25-35. The distance between the rows should be 0.5-1 m. A layer of fertilizer is laid out on the bottom, which is sprinkled with soil and watered, bushes are planted on top, dropping with a mixture of topsoil and compost.

The nesting scheme helps the gardener save on the number of supports for raspberry bushes. They dig a hole up to 50 cm deep, up to 1 m in diameter, into which a mixture of fertilizers with fertile soil is also applied, and 6-8 raspberry bushes are planted at an equal distance. A strong support is installed in the center of the circle, to which, as the raspberry grows, its shoots will be attached.

Dense plantings or in the form of curtains are most suitable for regions with adverse weather conditions, with frequent and sudden frosts and severe frosts in winter. Bushes are planted at a distance close to each other, without any schemes, as new shoots grow, a small island with planted bushes overgrows, acquiring a natural look of thickets.This method allows the bushes to survive severe frosts favorably.

Dense planting and nesting patterns are more common in regions with dry soil and adverse climates. In regions with wet soil, the best option is tape or holed, which implies a large distance between the bushes so that the bushes and berries do not rot inside the planting after rains.

Technology of spring and autumn planting remontant raspberries

Autumn and spring planting technology of remontant varieties has no significant differences. For the spring planting of raspberry bushes, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work on the soil twice:

• in the fall, dig deep with organic fertilizers for planting;
• in the spring for 1-1.5 months, prepared trenches or holes are disinfected with special preparations and rotted fertilizers, ash, peat are applied;
• 1 day or 3 hours before planting, the seedlings are dipped in root stimulants, the time depends on the purchased drug;
• remontant raspberry seedlings are deepened to the root collar, sprinkled with soil and mulch.

Irrigation can be done before planting the seedling, waiting until the water is absorbed, or after planting, but be sure to put a layer of sawdust or dry grass on top so that the water does not evaporate quickly.

Autumn planting of remontant raspberries, as a rule, begins with soil preparation, which is best started a year before planting bushes:

• dig a site for planting raspberries with manure in autumn;
• plant green manure plants in spring;
• before flowering green manure mow and dig up the site with them;
• in autumn, in September-October, holes or ditches are prepared in which young seedlings are planted.

If other garden plants grow on the site and the spread of raspberry bushes is undesirable, then slate, metal or plastic plates are dug around the site with seedlings at a distance of 50-70 cm from the bushes to a depth of 0.5 m , which will not allow the roots to grow beyond them.

Is it possible to plant remontant raspberries next to ordinary raspberries

Beginner gardeners often wonder if it is possible to plant a remontant raspberry variety to an ordinary one? It is possible that cross-pollination will not occur, but gradually the offspring of ordinary raspberries will clog the remontant variety with their shoots, which germinate quickly, unlike the second. There will also be problems with proper care, pruning, top dressing.

Regular variety bears fruit on the branches of the second year of life, which are then pruned. The remontant bears fruit twice, therefore, in the fall, the top is cut off on young fruit-bearing shoots. When 2 varieties are planted together, after 2-3 years it will be impossible to find differences between the bushes.

How to properly care for remontant raspberries

For raspberry varieties with remontant properties, proper spring, summer and autumn care is very important: pruning, mulching, timely watering and balanced top dressing. Varieties have strong immunity to diseases and pests, but preventive measures are needed to prevent diseases and pest attacks.

Spring care and pruning

Spring pruning of raspberry bushes is most favorable in the early stages, starting in March in the southern regions, from April - early May, the middle lane and northern regions. The pruning process is carried out during the beginning of shoot growth and bud swelling. The formation of bushes depends on the strength of plant growth, variety, the optimal number of 6-12 he althy, strong shoots. Remove damaged, diseased, weak, frozen, dull, thickening shoots.

After 1-1.5 weeks, the top is cut off on the young, this is necessary so that the old shoots develop more actively and form fruitful brushes with raspberries.If he althy branches were accidentally cut off, then they can be divided into cuttings, soaked in a growth stimulator, and when the roots are released, plant them with the rest of the raspberries.

It is better not to throw away the cut tops, but to dry them in the sun or in a dryer and use them in winter to make tea, which helps fight colds and stimulates the immune system.

One of the progressive methods is double pruning. This method forms bushes during 2 spring seasons. In the first, annual shoots are cut at a level of 1 m, which stimulates the growth of lateral branches and the formation of more roots and root shoots. With it, actively growing young shoots are cut off under the base, leaving 2-3 of the strongest.

In the second year in the spring, side branches are cut off by 10 cm on old shoots, which activates the formation of more ovaries. The method has a significant advantage, even if 1-2 shoots die after winter, this will have little effect on the loss of yield due to side shoots.

Soil loosening

In the spring, after removing the shelter around the raspberry bushes, they dig the soil shallowly, and you can add organic fertilizers, this will increase the air permeability of the soil. The next loosening is carried out as the soil is compacted, in dry weather or after rains, as well as when weeds are removed.

Shelter and mulching for the winter

In regions with a cold climate, where the soil freezes heavily in winter, all varieties cover. To do this, use the method of autumn mulching around the bushes and between the rows, laying a layer of straw, sawdust, mowed grass. For remontant raspberry varieties that are grown at a biennial pace, it is better to use mulch or spunbond, densely covering the area around the bushes and between the rows so that the root shoots do not freeze.

In autumn, the branches are bent to the ground, this should be done at the beginning of the season, when the branches are more elastic, green.

This method is used for remontant varieties where raspberries are grown on annual shoots. They are tied into small bunches and bent to the soil by no more than 0.5 m. A peg is driven in between several such bunches, to which bunches of raspberry branches are tied in turn. Of course, there may be more berries on the branches, but then every gardener decides for himself what is more important for him: to get a crop next year or to expect freezing.

Standard varieties are covered with burlap or spunbond, creating a layer of straw or sawdust inside the shelter.

Rate and frequency of watering

During the spring-autumn period, remontant raspberries are irrigated 4-6 times. The first watering after the spring thaw is carried out if the winter was not snowy and the soil was poorly moistened. If there was a lot of snow and the thaw passes with flooding of the site, then shallow (up to 10 cm) grooves should be made in the aisles to drain excess melt water.Next watering is done:

1. in 1-2 weeks at the beginning of May;
2. during flowering;
3. during fruit formation;
4. with repeated flowering and the formation of many drupes;
5. autumn moistening before shelter.

Raspberry watering methods:

1. drip is used for large areas of plantations;
2. arychny (ditch), when water is allowed into the aisles of raspberry bushes, moistening the soil around;
3. sprinkling is the most favorable way that will allow you to irrigate not only the soil in the summer heat, but also moisten the shoots and leaves.

Fertilizer

You need to feed remontant raspberries 2-4 times per season, as its abundant fruiting draws a lot of useful substances from the soil.In the spring, along with loosening the soil, rotted manure per 1 sq. m 10-liter bucket. During the beginning of the growing season, raspberries really need nitrogen, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, which can be purchased from retail chains and diluted according to the instructions.

For 1 bush use 50-60 g of superphosphate and 2-3 tbsp. l. potassium s alt. Also at the beginning of spring, peat and ash can be brought under the bush. Summer care for raspberry remontant varieties involves only watering with fertilizers under the bushes, it is usually carried out in June-July, when the shoots bloom.

In August and September, they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or mulched with green manure.

Mineral supplements

Urea, azophoska, ammonium nitrate, nitroammophoska are applied once in the spring, but since these fertilizers contain a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium, the volume of these elements in subsequent top dressing should be less than normal.For every 1 sq. m of planting area with raspberry bushes no more than 20 g of one of the fertilizers.

During all feeding, you should follow the rule: "better less than more."

Folk remedies

Most gardeners use folk remedies:

1. manure - cow, horse;
2. litter - bird;
3. green manure;
4. weed infusions;
5. rotted organic.

Manure contains a lot of nitrogen, so it is better to apply it in the spring. Litter, weed infusion is diluted in warm water and raspberries are watered in the middle of the season, during the formation of fruits. Green manure and rotted organics are best applied in preparation for winter.

Tie up and ration raspberry branches

The raspberries need tying and rationing of branches to ventilate the bushes so that the berries do not rot or ripen for a long time, as well as to reduce the likelihood of infection with rot and viruses.

For the garter, different types of trellises are installed, every 2-3 m they are tied to them with an elastic rope for several shoots. Excess thickening branches are cut off, they will consume more nutrients and can provoke diseases.

How to properly handle diseases and pests

The most basic and effective preventive treatment for pests and diseases is carried out in spring, in April - early May, before flowering. Also in autumn after picking berries. At other times, chemical treatment is dangerous to human life, as the emerging fruits and ripe berries can absorb harmful substances.

In spring, Fitoverm, Actellik, Agravertin, Nitrofen, blue vitriol, Bordeaux mixture, Topaz are used. They also plant calendula, marigolds, nasturtium, lavender, tansy, pyrethrum, pelargonium, chrysanthemums, as well as garlic, celery, onions, fennel from pests.

Fight against undergrowth

If the gardener does not need additional shoots for growing remontant raspberries, then they should be removed, since the plant spends a lot of energy and nutrients on their growth, which can reduce the yield. The growth, formed at a distance of more than 25 cm, is easily removed with a sharp shovel, which is deepened by 15-20 cm, since the raspberry root does not go deep, up to 40 cm.

The main mistakes of beginner gardeners

It is worth familiarizing yourself with the main mistakes of beginners when growing remontant raspberries.

Raspberries don't grow

Poor growth or its complete stop on raspberry bushes often occurs due to non-compliance with agricultural practices:

1. diseased seedling selected;
2. plant overfed with fertilizer;
3. Incorrect planting site, depleted soil, little sunlight, drafts.

Not blooming

One of the common reasons for the lack of flowering, ovary, is considered to be an incorrectly selected variety for the climatic zone. The soil on which the bushes are planted is too dense or with high acidity, alkalinity. Weather conditions also affect, the lack of a long daylight hours, constant rain or drought. Pests on the site that damage the root system: nematodes, ants.

Does not bear fruit: why

The lack of yield on raspberry bushes can occur due to overfeeding with organic fertilizers, diseases, pests or improper spring pruning.

The bushes often get sick

Repair raspberries, just like ordinary raspberries, are often exposed to diseases, especially gray rot and anthracnose, due to violation of the rules of agricultural technology, namely too frequent watering, with thick plantings and not carrying out sanitary pruning.

Advice from experienced gardeners: how to speed up the ripening of remontant raspberries

For violent growth and the appearance of flowers at an earlier date, several methods are used to speed up the process:

1. In autumn, old shoots are cut off, leaving no stumps, young ones are tied and bent to the ground. Top with a thick layer of mulch.
2. Install arcs on which a film is stretched in early spring to create a greenhouse effect and wake up shoots ahead of time. With the advent of constant heat, they gradually open, adapting to the temperature of the open ground.
3. With the Baikal preparation, observing the dosage, it is possible to warm up the soil ahead of time in the spring so that the root system wakes up faster.

Remontant raspberries do not differ in their useful properties from ordinary ones, but their yield is higher, although cultivation requires time and attention of the gardener.

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