Climbing roses in Siberia: cultivation and care, propagation methods and varieties

In regions with a mild climate, backyard and summer cottages are decorated with flower beds, alpine hills, on which lilies, primroses, and phloxes are planted. Climbing roses are wrapped around arches and arbors. From climbing plants create hedges. For growing climbing roses in Siberia, only varieties bred specifically for the adverse conditions of the northern territories are suitable. Heat-loving flowers are afraid of cold winds, do not tolerate severe frosts.

Features of growing roses in Siberia

Ornamental crops in harsh climates are usually not planted in open ground, but breeders are trying to create varieties of flowers that can decorate flower beds in yards and parks in regions where temperatures drop below -30, but for the winter roses, lilies, peonies carefully take cover, and heat-loving bulbous plants are dug up.

Best varieties for cold climates

Most of Russia is not suitable for planting ornamental crops. Accepted in Siberia, climbing roses grown in local nurseries endure harsh winters. Cold-resistant varieties are bred by grafting cuttings on unpretentious wild roses that are adapted to 40-degree frost.

Golden Celebration

Rose with flowers with a diameter of about 16 cm appeared thanks to the work of breeder David Austin. Variety Golden Celebration looks great in the heat, is not afraid of the cold. A compact shrub up to 0.8 m high slowly opens buds that do not fall off for a long time after abundant flowering. Large corollas of a rose are painted in an amber, creamy shade, are yellow, like the sun, emit a lemon scent. A plant with glossy leaves harmoniously looks alone, suitable for planting in groups, loves the sun, does not tolerate acidic soil.

William Sheakespeare 2000

Another creation of David Austin really liked him. A rose with double crimson flowers of medium size is distinguished by the fact that it changes color to a lilac or lilac hue. Climbing shoots of bushes growing to a height of more than a meter are covered with matte green leaves. The variety does not suffer from cold if it is insulated for the winter, it is immune to fungal infection. Violet notes are felt in the aroma of the flower.

New Dawn

The rose, bred back in the 30s of the last century, is still grown with pleasure in gardens. The thin lashes of the bush branch well; when placed on a support, they stretch up to 5 m in height. Terry pink flowers of small diameter in the sun seem completely white, darken on cloudy cold days. Buds bloom until late autumn.

The variety is accepted in Siberia, is practically not affected by diseases, is grown as a fountain bush, when planted next to a tree, the lashes originally hang from the branches. Graceful flowers fill the air with a spicy aroma with fruity notes.

Westerland

Rose Westerland was bred in the late 60s by the breeder Kordes, combining scrubs of park varieties. The plant, which turned out to be winter-hardy, beautifully wraps around gazebos and arches, is used as the main element of flower beds. The Westerland rose has oblong, glossy leaves. During flowering, the branches are dotted with buds, in which there is a golden center, and the petals, depending on the weather, change from yellow to apricot, pink or orange. In the garden, when the bush blooms, the air is saturated with a bright aroma.

Rosarium Uetersen

A climbing variety, bred in Germany in 1977, planted to create hedges, decorate arbors and arches. At first, the plant was not successful, but with the advent of the vintage style, yards and garden plots began to be actively decorated with a climbing rose. Flowers, consisting of hundreds of petals, are collected in clusters, the diameter of one corolla reaches 11-12 cm.Dark red buds brighten under the rays of the sun. The plant does not freeze out at -30, but does not take root in places where water approaches the surface. Scourges of roses stretch up to 3 m, the width of the bush is one and a half meters.

Nuances of outdoor cultivation

For a long time, Siberian flower growers did not dare to cultivate heat-loving crops in the garden, but with the advent of frost-resistant varieties, they began to try to plant roses in an open area. Many have succeeded.

Date of planting

In order for the flower to take root in the climate of Siberia, which is characterized by a late spring, and frosts begin early, you need to plant a climbing rose when the earth warms up well, dandelions bloom. And this is usually observed not earlier than the end of May.

In autumn, it is recommended to send adult bushes to the open area that manage to take root before the winter weather arrives.

Select location

You can also create comfortable conditions for roses in climates where the summer is short and the sun does not rise as high above the horizon as in the south. When choosing a place for a plant, you need to consider some nuances:

1. A rose cannot be planted in a lowland where the soil freezes deep in winter.
2. It is better to place the culture not in the sun, but in light partial shade.
3. The flower site must be protected from cold winds blowing from the north or east.

Climbing varieties decorate buildings, but so that the plant does not freeze and die, they plant it at least a meter from the wall. The rose does not tolerate stagnant water, looks harmonious, feels good next to coniferous trees and shrubs, irises and clematis.

Preparation of planting material

You need to buy a rose in a local nursery that sells varieties adapted to natural conditions. It is necessary to choose a seedling for growing with strong roots and shoots, with a green stem. In order for the rose to quickly accept in a new place, move away from the resulting stress:

1. Pour potassium permanganate powder into the water, roots are placed in the prepared solution for a day.
2. The flower is soaked in the Zircon growth stimulator.
3. The shoots of the plant are shortened by 20 cm, damaged branches and dried parts of the roots are removed.

Shortly before planting, the sections are wiped with "Fundazol". Roses that are sold in a package with a clod of soil are placed in the soil along with a container that is made from a material that dissolves in the earth.

Boarding rules

The area for climbing roses is dug up, leveled, removed with weed roots. Ash or dolomite flour dilute acidic soil, make a hole for a seedling up to 0.8 m deep:

1. Fine gravel or expanded clay is poured into the bottom with a thick layer, river sand is added on top.
2. Combine humus, peat and garden soil.
3. The well is filled with a nutrient mixture by a third, put 2-3 tablespoons of superphosphate and one potassium s alt.
4. The rose is placed vertically in a hole, the roots are straightened and buried 10 centimeters below the surface.
5. Supporting the bush with your hand, fill the space.

The seedling is irrigated with warm water. The earth is compacted around the plant, a small shaft is built. The first 2 weeks a young rose is covered from the rays of the sun.

Subtleties of plant care

In order for the seedling to begin to develop rapidly, to sprout and get stronger by winter, it must be carefully looked after.

Irrigation

The rose is irrigated with settled water twice a week, in the heat it is done more often. Before the onset of cold weather, it is enough to moisten the ground under the seedling every 7 days.

Fertilization

Mullein, which contains a lot of nitrogen, is most often used to feed a young plant. One part of the organic product is mixed with 10 hours of water, the rose is infused and fertilized 20 days after planting. For the second feeding of the plant, you can add bird droppings, which it takes in a concentration 2 times less than manure.

Cutting and shaping

Before the onset of frost, they get rid of weak and damaged shoots, cut off buds and leaves. If this is not done, the rose will not survive the winter. In spring or autumn, they begin to form pruning. If the flowers are laid on new shoots of the plant, the old ones are shortened. When buds form on last year's lashes, only the top is removed from them.

Preparing for winter season

Even roses bred for Siberia need shelter during the cold season.To do this, the branches of the plant are removed from the trellis and covered with needles from above, wrapped with a material that does not allow moisture to pass through. Some gardeners build a frame for the winter and wrap it with burlap, tarpaulin or roofing material. Dry leaves or spruce branches are laid in the space, covered with polyethylene.

Methods of protection against diseases and pests

Lack of sunlight, deficiency or excess of moisture, lack of nutrients provoke a weakening of climbing roses. Plants affected:

• peronosporosis;
• powdery mildew;
• black spotting.

For the prevention of diseases in wet weather, bushes are recommended to be sprayed every week with Fundazol. To prevent infection with fungi, once every 10 or 14 days, the leaves and shoots of the rose are treated with Zircon and Fitosporin fungicides.

Microscopic aphids sprinkle the flowering plant. If spraying with a solution of tobacco dust and laundry soap did not help to cope with insects, the home remedy is replaced with chemical insecticides in the form of Aktara, Karbofos, Actellik.

Propagation of roses in Siberia

Climbing varieties are not bred with seeds. Seedlings often do not appear at all, and sometimes rose hips grow, which bloom after 3 or 4 years. The culture is propagated by grafting, but only experienced gardeners can do such a complicated method.

The easiest way is to propagate a rose with cuttings, harvest them in the summer, lignified shoots are cut in the fall and kept in a cool place, folded in a plastic bag until spring.

On the green cutting of the plant, which is shortened to 15 cm, up to 3 buds are left, all the leaves located below are cut off. The substrate is prepared from garden and sod land, adding sand to the mixture. The soil is scalded with boiling water or heated in the oven.

On lignified shoots of plants 25 or 30 cm long, make a straight cut at the top, at an angle at the bottom, leave up to 5-6 internodes and a couple of leaves. Rose cuttings are lowered for a day into a growth stimulator, then they are stuck into the substrate to a depth of about 50 mm at an angle. The soil is moistened, and the shoots are insulated with a film.

If the cuttings of the plant are regularly sprayed with water from a spray bottle, ventilated, roots appear after 10 days, and the coating is removed.

For breeding roses by layering:

1. In an annual plant, choose a lower branch no shorter than a meter in length.
2. Small depth incisions are made above the kidneys.
3. A groove is dug around the bush, which is moistened, and humus is poured onto the bottom.
4. A rose shoot is placed in the trench, fixed with wire, covered with earth.
5. Pegs are hammered near the plant, a film is stretched, a greenhouse is created.

Cuttings that have taken root are transplanted to an open area, fed. To give the rose a decorative look, when the bush grows, the branches are shortened.

Recommended